compression Baaad. now what?

[jmortensen]

I'm somewhat confused because my mechanic is telling me If he were me...he wouldn't put a penny into the car...and just drive it.... I don't know what to do....listen to him (), find another Z, or put money into it this one.....

In this thread you haven't given enough info to make an intelligent comment about whether you should keep the car. If it is a rust bucket, has a lot of damage to fix or is otherwise needing attention and you can't do most of the work yourself, what you have is a money pit. Some people don't mind putting a lot of money into a 40 year old Japanese tin can to make it run, others do. You're the one who has to pay for it, so ultimately you need to decide if it's worth it. Strictly from the compression readings, it looks like you have a serviceable engine.

[mlc240z]

Bruce, if you go, I'll do myself harm!

You're too valuable.

Bounce,

follow the suggestions on the leakdown and maybe buy a new compression tester for peace of mind.

[bounce]

In this thread you haven't given enough info to make an intelligent comment about whether you should keep the car. If it is a rust bucket, has a lot of damage to fix or is otherwise needing attention and you can't do most of the work yourself, what you have is a money pit. Some people don't mind putting a lot of money into a 40 year old Japanese tin can to make it run, others do. You're the one who has to pay for it, so ultimately you need to decide if it's worth it. Strictly from the compression readings, it looks like you have a serviceable engine.

ya'll will learn the info as I do....as far as I'm concerned, I've got my Z and only a large meteorite can take it away.

thanks for the serviceable engine comment.....re-assurance is appreciated. It's tagged,titled and has theraputic carbs on the way....nothing will stop me now...muhahahahahahahhhaaaaaaaa

B

Edited August 27, 2010 by bounce

[Shade133]

your going to have a price possesion on your hand when this thing is in tip top shape.

[Gary in NJ]

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=333171#post333171

Bounce, your mechanic may be giving you sound advice. Based on the pictures from the thread above, you wouldn't want to invest in that car as it stands, especially if the frame is in the same condition as the body. However, if you enjoy driving the car and it only needs a few dollars here and there, I would perform "normal" maintenance.

What is the condition of the frame? If the frame is structurally sound, I would invest to keep it running. Maybe even do a "cosmetic" restoration. But if the structure is the same condition as the body, tread lightly. Don't go overboard on a car whose last ride might be on the back of a flatbed truck.

As they say in the medical field, you may want to tag it DNR.

[bounce]

I haven't seen anything discouraging regarding the frame...but haven't seen but the underneath of the front end, back end and topside interior engine compartment....

I looked at the front floor pans and by each door jam under the carpet.....pretty sound.

I'll look closely and take some pics tomorrow...

I took her around the neighboor hood this afternoon and was pleased. It'll beat my Tundra.

[Diseazd]

Dang it!! I did it again. After preaching that the first thing anyone needs to do is make sure the choke cable is slack in the off position so as to not be pulling the nozzle down, I told him the start cranking on the nozzle. I'd better get to work and find steve and Pam a decent sales person who has his **** together. Is dumbass one word, two words, hyphenated or what?

Carry on..........

I know this is an old post, but not only should you check for slack in the choke cable (off position), buy also put your hand under the carb and push up on the choke nozzle to make sure it doesn't have a little bind that prevents it from closing.

[Diseazd]

Double post

Edited October 7, 2010 by Diseazd