Is '72 AM-FM swap into a '71 plug and play?

[7T1240]

Hi all.

I have a 2/72 car that I've been cherry picking some parts off of (my car is a 11/71). The '72 has an AM-FM Hitachi radio in it, while my '71 has the seeking AM Hitachi radio. Before I start pulling things apart, does anyone know if a '72 AM-FM is a plug and play into a '71 AM radio wiring harness?

Thanks, Gary S.

[lbpd719]

what are you doing with the seeking AM when done?

(I need one for my 71)

[EScanlon]

Nut-Nah!!!

FIRST, you answer the question, then you can scavenge....

Priority gets given to those that answer the question first, then ask....

Both the AM and AM/FM Radios were very basic as to electrical connections.

Ground was done via the case, Power and Speaker connections via a single thin 3-spade connector, with the connectors in parallel alignment (viewed from the side: | | | ). W/B and W to the speaker, L was 12v+ switched.

Antenna also used a 3-spade connector, but this one used the wider spades and it's alignment was similar to an electrical grounded outlet (from the side: | = ) the bars of the "equal" sign are further apart than the coarse keyboard ideogram. L is power TO the antenna switch, LR and LW are directional power connections FROM the switch TO the antenna (antenna motor was grounded by it's case). If memory serves LR -raises and LW lowers the antenna.

FWIW

E

Edited September 5, 2010 by EScanlon

[lbpd719]

will be digging into the 71 and 72 in the AM to try to give you the best answer!

[7T1240]

what are you doing with the seeking AM when done?

(I need one for my 71)

Hi Dan. Thanks for your responses. When I first got my Z I made the mistake of throwing out a couple of parts that I replaced with newer Nissan stuff. One was the shift boot for my '71, the other was an original fuel pump. Later I was able to buy a nicely crafted shift boot for early cars (no string tie). It was made by one of the members here. Since I threw out my old boot, I didn't have the grommet that slides over the shifter to transfer from my old boot to the new one. Bummer! On the fuel pump, the new Nissan part was a later design. Some time later, I learned from a thread by Arne that you can rebuild the fuel pump. Damn! So, anyway, I generally hold onto all the original stuff that comes off the car now, especially those that can be refitted if originality is desired.

Nut-Nah!!!

FIRST, you answer the question, then you can scavenge....

Priority gets given to those that answer the question first, then ask....

Both the AM and AM/FM Radios were very basic as to electrical connections.

Ground was done via the case, Power and Speaker connections via a single thin 3-spade connector, with the connectors in parallel alignment (viewed from the side: | | | ). W/B and W to the speaker, L was 12v+ switched.

Antenna also used a 3-spade connector, but this one used the wider spades and it's alignment was similar to an electrical grounded outlet (from the side: | = ) the bars of the "equal" sign are further apart than the coarse keyboard ideogram. L is power TO the antenna switch, LR and LW are directional power connections FROM the switch TO the antenna (antenna motor was grounded by it's case). If memory serves LR -raises and LW lowers the antenna.

FWIW

E

E, thanks. So, long story short the connectors are different and it is not plug and play, correct? But with your wiring identification I could make some short jumpers using the proper ends and install to avoid cutting the harness. Is this the route you would take in such a swap?

Gary S.

[EScanlon]

There are TWO sets of wiring connections going to the radio. One is for Power and Speaker, the other goes to the Antenna Switch, those are the two connectors I described. Both styles of radio use the two small wiring harnesses.

If memory serves, both the AM and the AM/FM radio have the SAME sets of connectors, but only YOU can verify that (you have the radios right in front of you).

But, if it turns out that they are NOT the same connectors, then Yes, in order to avoid cutting and splicing, I'd make a set of jumpers. If you can get the proper spade connectors (male and female) and some shrink tubing, you could make your own "adapter" and not even bother having to get the specific complete connnector (housing and wiring hardware).

Alternatively, you could get some of those Red wiring jumpers that splice INTO a circuit without cutting the wire.

HTH

E

[7T1240]

Okay, had some time to dig into this today. My initial goal was to swap out the heater control panels, but I figured since the radio would then be accessible I'd at least ask the question at the beginning of this thread. At the time, I did not have the radios right there in front of me, but after removing heater panels I went ahead and pulled the radios as well.

E, you were correct. The antenna, speakers and power, and antenna motor connectors for the AM-FM should have been exactly the same as the '71 AM seeking radio. The first photo shows the power antenna connector in hand, the thin 3 spade in the foreground, and the red w/ blue bullet that connects to a blue power lead, if my memory serves me correctly.

Unfortunately, my radio and harness were hacked when the previous owner installed an aftermarket sound system, so this wasn't plug & play. The second photo shows the power antenna was the same, and the red w/ blue bullet was also the same. However, the 3 connector thin spade had the blue wire lopped off right at the connector, and later added back in to retrofit the radio into the hacked harness.

In the end, I elected to stick with the AM radio while keeping an eye out for a unmolested dash harness from a manual car with a late '70 build date.

Gary S.

[EScanlon]

The unhacked wiring shows an in-line fuse holder. Take note that the "fuse" is NOT a fuse. It is a NOISE SUPPRESSOR for the AM band, over and above the condenser at the distributor and alternator.

If you really wanted to swap the AM/FM into the car, removing the second half of the Noise Suppressor holder and inserting it into the proper connector is really quite simple.

Use a very thin (both in thickness and width) straight edge screwdriver and insert it in the "hump" or "notch" visible at the connection side of the connector. That will lower the small tang on the top of the connector that locks it into place on the connector. Once that's done and before you remove the screwdriver blade, all you have to do is slide the spade connector out the back of the plastic housing.

Do the same on the remnant of the other wiring harness.

Insert into the proper connector and if you haven't mangled the tang, it will once again lock into place.

Presto, Zesto you've swapped the wiring out, and in the FWIW dept, if you're not looking for "Concours" matching interior, go the AM/FM route, you can at least find music on FM while AM is mostly talk radio.

2¢

E