My 240 is nearly painted, and the body shop is begining to work on the car's suspension components.

What do most of you prefer-- powdercoating or painting for the supension pieces? Are there pros/cons to each approach? I had originally opted for paint--but after looking at some of the shop's undercoating work, I may go that route instead.

On a similar note: Has anyone tried powdercoating the grille and tail light panel? If so, how close is it to the original gray color? Thanks!

I have done extensive powdercoating on my 914 and some on the Z. It can be expensive unless you have an adequate home setup. If I had to do it over I would paint much of what I powdercoated.

I just did the rear panel and grill with the paint that Les Cannaday supplies. It was a bit glossier than I expected but what do I know, I don't recall how glossy they were from the factory.

  conedodger said:

I have done extensive powdercoating on my 914 and some on the Z. It can be expensive unless you have an adequate home setup. If I had to do it over I would paint much of what I powdercoated.

I am making the same evaluation as the op. Why would you do it differently?

Thanks.

Powdercoating is superior to paint in every measurable way.Except price.

  Rich1 said:

My 240 is nearly painted, and the body shop is begining to work on the car's suspension components.

What do most of you prefer-- powdercoating or painting for the supension pieces? Are there pros/cons to each approach? I had originally opted for paint--but after looking at some of the shop's undercoating work, I may go that route instead.

On a similar note: Has anyone tried powdercoating the grille and tail light panel? If so, how close is it to the original gray color? Thanks!

One thing about powder coating is that it will dis-color against chemicals. So watch out for carb cleane, coolant, oil spill, degreaser, or brake cleaner.

And it is a good idea to cover any threded areas and clearance critical areas when you do it. Otherwise you will have problem installing some of the parts.

Otherwise, I have done: all the members, arms, and coil springs, and so on as shown here.

Edited September 27, 201014 yr by esprist

Por 15 is not a bad intermediary. If you're surface is clean its pretty resistant to chipping. A quart cost me $50.00. A gallon would probably be between double and triple that.

The only issue with the POR15 would be that it's weakened by UV rays. Says righ ton the can. Top coat it, use it in areas not exposed to UV rays (Sun)

  jonathanrussell said:

I am making the same evaluation as the op. Why would you do it differently?

Thanks.

I can do smallish parts at home. Z-Train hits it right on the head with his post. Every time I walked into the powdercoating shop for a large load I was given a story about how the Feds and the County and City were killing him and yada yada yada and then he tried to kill me with his prices. When I started having parts powdercoated, it was bring all you can haul and we will do it for $100 bucks. The last load was much smaller than that and he wanted $500 bucks.

Paint starts looking awfully good and you start thinking you might have an obsessive-compulsive disorder when the guy starts asking for that kind of money. Yup! For $500 bucks paint starts looking really nice...

  Rich1 said:

What do most of you prefer-- powdercoating or painting for the supension pieces?

If you are using a powder or liquid paint - surface prep is perhaps the most important step. The "quality" of the materials used in the paint, powder or liquid, is what is important to the durability / life-span of the finish.

As I recall - - "Powder Coating" grew out of the process of electrostatic painting. Electrostatic painting was very useful for example, when the military and/or private companies had steel file cabinets. desks, office chairs etc - that needed to be repainted/refinished - in place, ie in the Office. So putting a negative charge on the object - then using a positive charge on the paint particles - resulted in next to no over-spray, and as importantly, it got paint on surfaces where it was otherwise hard to spray directly.

A less expensive or lower quality "powder" is not going to be "better" than a higher quality liquid when both are applied properly. Powder or Liquid they are both "plastic finishes" and it is the quality of the polymers and compounds used that account for the qualities of the final finish. {holding process quality equal}.

If possible in your area - check with a local shop that does Mil-Spec. finishes for DOD/NASA contractors. It is possible you will get a higher quality finish at the same price, or the same quality finish at a lower price from shops that have been in the business of supplying MilSpec standard finishes, than from the new start-up's doing powder coating. {automotive body shops aren't the only people that paint things}

I like dealing with the Mil-Spec certified vendors because by and large they maintain better process controls. They are also far more knowledgeable about the available alternatives and standards of durability than most.

FWIW,

Carl B.

  conedodger said:

I can do smallish parts at home. Z-Train hits it right on the head with his post. Every time I walked into the powdercoating shop for a large load I was given a story about how the Feds and the County and City were killing him and yada yada yada and then he tried to kill me with his prices. When I started having parts powdercoated, it was bring all you can haul and we will do it for $100 bucks. The last load was much smaller than that and he wanted $500 bucks.

Paint starts looking awfully good and you start thinking you might have an obsessive-compulsive disorder when the guy starts asking for that kind of money. Yup! For $500 bucks paint starts looking really nice...

Part of that is because you live in Gestapofornia.I 'm fortunate to have a PC guy near me with his own sandblasting booth and he is reasonable.He shoots satin black almost daily and i just drop off parts and he adds them to his "shoot for the day".

Powdercoating is my new disease.Car stuff.MC stuff.House stuff.Ranch stuff.The wife got a little upset when i asked her if she thought the cat would look good in "Copper vein".

I'll have to redo mine this winter. I'm going to go with galvanized solutions.

A lot of people can actually do it. Keysmith for instance can help you. They galvanised the doors of my parents house (3m height, 4m wide), so some "small" suspension parts should not be a problem.

Worst case scenario, I've found some cold galvanised solution (92% Zn + Epoxy). I'll give it a try. You can then paint it the way you want.

It's a cathodic protection. Even if you get some scratches on your protection, metal won't rust since oxydation will occur with Zinc instead of steel. That's what we put today on suspension car parts (bolts, Tie rods, collars, etc.)

  tlorber said:

Por 15 is not a bad intermediary. If you're surface is clean its pretty resistant to chipping. A quart cost me $50.00. A gallon would probably be between double and triple that.

I'll do POR over powder. You can hammer on it and it stays there. Looks pretty good too.

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=32786&ppuser=14083