Well the clutch on my 72 240z is finally takeing a crap, won't even spin the tires dumping into 1st anymore. So pretty soon its time for a new one. I'm wondering what kind you reccomend. I'm wanting under $200, but the cheaper and better. I want something thats going to hold up for atleast a year with the way I drive. I'm more into "rev up to 6 grand and dump the clutch and make some smoke" as opposed to feathering the clutch when I race. I do race, not regularly, but I do my fair share of track and street raceing in the summer. Nothing seriosly done to the motor, just pretty much a stock rebuild with ported heads, and backcut valves right now. And intake and exhaust mods in the near future, so nothing extreamly high output here... Thanks!

Centerforce has been good for me. I've used the same one on my race cars for 7 years and it is still going strong... but I don't dump the clutch... although it does get a workout.

MSA has them but I don't know how much the clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing setup costs.

I called Summit Racing to check what they had for the Centerforce clutches for my car and they said they had the Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch kit for something like $260 or so, but it also required a special throwout bearing which is an additional $65.00, so total would be around $325.00 for the entire clutch. I don't know, I would like to keep the cost down, but I may end up just going for it.

Another vote for centerforce here. I have used centerforce and can say they last. I pulled my motor and trans a few months back and the centerforce clutch looked like new after 30,000 hard miles. You will get what you pay for.

I have never found the stock clutch to be inadequate.... Under 200 hp you do not need more than stock... That is of course if you use the clutch properly.. I find too many people want to try for a tire spin in second and even third gear. This is not good for your equipment, and does not get you down the road any faster.. It just destroys clutches.. A good fresh clutsh will easily put down more rubber in first gear than you need or want to deploy... After all if you are spinning the tires you are making a good show for others, but you are not putting the car down the road, just making smoke. The goal of a aggressive take off is to beat the competition,, execessive tire spin is not to your advantage... Tire spin is only used to keep the engine in the optimum power band during the take off. If all goes well the tires will grap quickly and the car will be propelled down the track... In second gear there is no need to spin the tires, because when you shift the engine should fall right into the right RPM for the power to be on tap... thus a tire spin now will only be a waste of time and a waste of equipment... Always alow the clutch to seat before applying power,,, and your clutch will probably never fail again.. I have put well over 200,000 miles on stock cutches , and driven agressively the whole time.... It's the method not the equipment...You can burn out any clutch, if it is used improperly..

Nuf said.. I will now step off of the soap box.

SMG is right about burning out any clutch if you try hard enough...

I just put in a centerforce I into my '74 260, it's around 300 horse (so I've been told) and I feels real close to that. It's not pretty, but it's fast.

The clutch was around $160 my cost with the throwout bearing.... And don't forget that...

Let me know if I can help....

~Brian

If you put a good Centerforce clutch in your car and do a 6K rpm and dump the clutch, you are going to have more than just clutch problems......if you plan on doing this you are better off with a stock clutch that will slip or your transmission, u-joints, ring and pinion, half-shafts, stub axles will be the next pieces on your replacement list.

If you want to do burnouts like that, you are better of getting a Mustang or Camaro with a driveline that might hold up to that kind of abuse......

I do love my 2nd and 3rd gear rubber. I do it when I'm on the street just for fun, when I race I don't waste my time to try to get rubber into 2nd, although at times it usually ends up getting a little squeal anyway. My entire driveline is also going to be reaplaced with an LSD 4.11 rear end, with brace, and aftermarket axles and I'v already got my driveshaft. I'm extremly interested in that clutch your talking about, the Centerforce for $160. Is that the dual friction one, or just a standard or stock replacement or somthing? If its dual friction, like the one Summit wants $325 for, then no question, I'll take one.

Mine is a Centerforce One, not the dual friction... I can check on the dual friction if you like.

My '74 has a bunch of power, the centerforce one was the clutch in it previously and the guy had great luck with it. I actually prefer a clutch that will give before anything else in the drivetrain...

Anyhow, let me know on what you would like me to check on and I will do so...

Have a great night....

Brian

If you would, check on the dual friction one also, I'd like to have that one if possible, but may just go with a standard one. Thanks!

The dual friction needs a special throw out bearing, the complete set dual friction and bearing is $282.

That's a whole lotta clutch...

Brian

Thats $42 less then Summit wants for it, I think I'll probally go with that before long. I'll stay in touch and probally be ready to buy it in a couple weeks. Thanks