Under 24hrs to flush coolant & winterize. No start. Long term storage.

[fiveleaf]

Aha, the Canadian winter.

I have about 24hrs to winter prep my z, for at least the next 10 months. It will be staying in this garage at least until I graduate. At least a year and a half.

So here's my problem: As a busy student I get no time (or $) for my z anymore. It's stored a 5hr drive away from where I attend school, and if I see it, it means camping in the garage with her.

I'm currently about 5km down the street, using the internet

There is no antifreeze in the coolant system right now.

Recent $5k engine rebuild.

Winter is coming.

I am leaving her.

I've (of course) researched a little before coming out here, and plan on:

Pouring oil in the spark plugs.

Removing Batt.

Plugging possible mouse holes.

Fuel Stabilizer.

...

And coolant refresh.

I was using a Crane HI-6 (CD Ignition box) to a PS92 ("CD Ignition Only" coil). The CD Ignition box is dead, and I can't get my hands on a regular coil.

I can turn the car over, which would (I assume) be enough to pump the antifreeze/water through the block... but I'm unsure how to open the valve that allows it to go further than the radiator.

On that note, I've never actually properly drained my coolant. Exploded once, my first experience removing a water pump, and hose replacement have all been... messy.

Questions:

1. Further recommendations for long-term storage

2. How to get the temp sensor to open the valve!

3. Is there a coolant drain hole (like the fuel tank has?)

4. Do our water pumps flow enough volume to refresh a coolant system on battery power alone? (Because if the volume is anything like a oil pump...)

EDIT: 1972 240z, L28, Unilite distributor (with Crane HI-6 and PS92 coil).

Edited October 10, 2010 by fiveleaf

[cygnusx1]

Open the heater valve by putting the HVAC controls to the heating position. Nose the car down a hill, or jack up the rear end after opening the drain **** on the bottom of the radiator. Then jack the front up and fill it with antifreeze mix. Squeezing (pumping the radiator hoses) helps to push the fluids around a little. Getting the coolants to flow by cranking or gravity is much easier if you remove the thermostat (optional). Plug the vents in the inner fenders inside the engine bay, and the air intake, with steel wool wrapped in a baggie, or something the mice won't chew. Place a note on the steering wheel to REMOVE THE BLOCKAGES BEFORE DRIVING. Get the car on jackstands OR at least put about 50psi in the tires to keep them round. Fuel stabil is a good idea. 10 months should be a walk in the park. No problem if the car is kept relatively sheltered. Put the battery on a charge tender, or put it in a car that will be used regularly. A secured car cover is a good idea too.

Edited October 10, 2010 by cygnusx1

[fiveleaf]

Thanks!

My problem is still opening the valve... good to know there's probably a drain port on the bottom of the rad though. Hope it has one (aftermarket).

No blower motor or heat exchange to worry about

[Mike B]

My problem is still opening the valve... good to know there's probably a drain port on the bottom of the rad though. Hope it has one (aftermarket).

There is also a coolant drain on the block (a bolt towards the rear on the left side). I have also heard some people use mothballs to help keep the rodents away when storing a car.

-Mike

[cygnusx1]

Which valve are you referring to?