Spindle Pins - How To Tell If They Are Worn?

[SSuspect]

Hi all,

Couple of questions here...

I have the rear suspension on the 240z completely torn out (doing the R200 swap). The strut housings and lower control arms are still assembled (at spindle pins). Before I go through the hassles of replacing spindle pins (and potentially wheel bearings), I would like to know if I really NEED TO do this.

The pins and bushings seem very tight. The LCA springs back up if I push it down. There does not seem to be any "slop" or "play" in the pin area.

I do not know if these have ever been replaced (no info from PO).

I have 2 options here:

1 - Bead blast the entire LCA and strut housing and re-paint with POR or Eastwood black. Would leave everything assembled.

2 - Go ahead and pull everything apart and do the powdercoat and re-assemble thing.

I am leaning toward doing the "big job" just to insure that it is all done correctly, but I do not want to if I don't have to. I am out of "play money" for a month or so.

I AM going to go ahead and do the rear disc brake conversion while it is down.

Any info is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Tim

[tlorber]

My $0.02-You may not NEED to do this, but unless the bushings have been replaced already (my preference is with urethane, but who cares?) they are almost 40 years old. I did not actually replace my spindles, but I did take them out in order to replace bushings. You already have most of the system apart, so you might as well deal with it now. It will be a bit more time and $, but you'll know that you are done with it.

I was able to extract my spindles with a pipe clamp and a bfh, but you can locate a spindle pin puller from someone on this site (beandip) that will make the process easier. Leave the nuts on as long as you can to avoid gauling the threads. You may want to get hold of extra nuts because you'll probably damage the existing ones.

Hope that helps.

[Arne]

The spindle pins are a non-wearing item. They should not need replacement unless damaged by other part failures in the LCA, rust or improper removal.

[SSuspect]

Thanks guys. I am torn on this one. I may replace them for that "peace of mind" feeling and the ability to get everything powdercoated, but I am still not 100% sure that I want to deal with the hassles. Especially since eveything feels tight and the bushings seem to have no slop at all.

I do have the new bushings in my Hyper-Flex kit. May just bite the bullet and do it since I don't know if they have been done before.

One more question - Rear wheel bearings... I know that this is another major job. Critical requirement? Another $200 - $300 for bearings, seals and any labor involved if I can't get it myself. Between this and brakes, I am trying to avoid sinking $1k+ into the rear end.

Thanks again guys! I appreciate the input.

Edited October 13, 2010 by SSuspect

[Darrel]

Tim, it probably isn't necessary to replace the spindle pin bushings, With the nuts torqued to specs, if the pins and bushings are still tight, then there isn't a need.

but if you do, you know how to get a hold of me for the spindle pin tool. Do not try and hammer them out if you want to reuse the pins. You may get them out undamaged except for a little mushrooming of the threads, but just to make sure the tool works well, you have seen it.

[SSuspect]

I was looking through a few pictures and in this one, you can see that the washer is weather cracked. I assume that the bushings may not be much better (even though they feel OK).

I guess I will be looking for a spindle pin puller! DAMMIT! Next, to figure out the wheel bearing situation... :sick:

[SSuspect]

Tim, it probably isn't necessary to replace the spindle pin bushings, With the nuts torqued to specs, if the pins and bushings are still tight, then there isn't a need.

but if you do, you know how to get a hold of me for the spindle pin tool. Do not try and hammer them out if you want to reuse the pins. You may get them out undamaged except for a little mushrooming of the threads, but just to make sure the tool works well, you have seen it.

Thanks Darrel! I will look over everything again tonight and see how I want to manage this. This "little project" is turning into a "BIG" project. You know how I am though...

All of the remining small pieces for the R200 swap are at the powder-coater now. I will be doing the rear disc conversion, but I need to sell more "stuff" to absorb some of the cost.

Edited October 13, 2010 by SSuspect

[Darrel]

Too bad you sold the parts you had. You could have used the extra rear suspension to go to town on then bolted it on. The only thing would have been the extra suspension was from a 260. Everything was the same except for the strut tubes.

Let me know when you are ready for it and we will get together.

There isn't much movement when the bushings are in good shape, the bushings will always look better than the stock washers.

And yes, I know how you are and the tool will be ready for you. ;-)

Edited October 13, 2010 by Darrel

[SSuspect]

Too bad you sold the parts you had. You could have used the extra rear suspension to go to town on then bolted it on. The only thing would have been the extra suspension was from a 260. Everything was the same except for the strut tubes.

Let me know when you are ready for it and we will get together.

There isn't much movement when the bushings are in good shape, the bushings will always look better than the stock washers.

And yes, I know how you are and the tool will be ready for you. ;-)

Yeah - I thought about that. Either way, even using the 260 stuff, I would have had to rip everything apart anyway.

I may surprise you on this one. I REALLY do not want to rip all of this apart...

BUT, once the rear suspension is done, then I can paint the car! That is the next step! Once that is done, the interior install will go quickly.

Edited October 13, 2010 by SSuspect

[Darrel]

You know you're going to rip it all apart. >:-)

[John Coffey]

I guess I do this enough (weekly) that its not a big deal. Spending $1K on a complete rear suspension/diff rebuild is normal and cheap for these cars. Thank your stars you're not working on the rear end of an XKE Jag.

[SSuspect]

I guess I do this enough (weekly) that its not a big deal. Spending $1K on a complete rear suspension/diff rebuild is normal and cheap for these cars. Thank your stars you're not working on the rear end of an XKE Jag.

I hear you John. The main issue here is that I have a couple of other projects going too (my Impala and a 1982 K10 pickup). I am not complaining about what I have put into the car. I am just impatient and my PayPal "play money" account is low. The front end is done and I want tp get everything finished up in the rear.

My wife usually let's me do what I want, but I have been getting the "take a break from the car" evil eye lately.

I would like to have the car on the road by the end of the year, but we'll see...

Here are a couple of "progress pics". Still have a lot to do.

EDIT!!!: Needless to say, I am not doing a proper "Original Restoration" on this car, but it should be very nice when I am done...

Edited October 13, 2010 by SSuspect