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Okay so here is my idea but not sure if its worth it.I recently bought a n42 head had it port and polished rebuilt.Next im using a n42 block and i wanted to have it bored over to 3.0,Have a friend that works for nissan so he said he can get me 6 ka24de pistons for 150 so im happy there.Running su's on my l28 its a 240z so using those. Am using the l24 rods from my 240z. Now my question is me boring over to 3.0 is it gonna make that much of a difference or should i just forget the boring over and live with my head work any ideas.Im a student so i cant really spend to much.I have all these parts already so please ideas would help thanks.

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Bore-and-Hone the block - don't skimp on that!

Get a qualified machine shop to put the new pistons on the rods and balance

The amount gained in displacement is minimal with increasing to 3.0 (without changing the crank) - most of the gain you will have is in the head - I would put on a bigger cam into the head - hopefully you will only have the engine out one time for this type work so get it right the first time - use the search key - educate yourself with what others have done!

Keep us posted!

So do you think i shouldnt bore the block out,Get a hot cam and do a lot of head work.I had a l24 for the last year or so just want something more torquey but cant spent to much money u know

Those pistons work with the L24 rods on the diesel crank. They won't work on the L24 or L28 crank. You'll need custom pistons to make what you have work, and that's going to blow the idea of cheap out of the water.

Why not slap the head on the block as it sits, with maybe just a hone and some new rings/bearings? A tight top end and a loose bottom end is a good way to make power.

I thought the head was already ported. I also assumed that a ported head already had a big cam in it. When I did my budget build L28 I did the following: Ported the head and cc'd the chambers (did it myself). Used a reground cam that was about .490/280 spec and Schneider springs and retainers. Honed block, but rings and bearings in the bottom end. Shaved the head just a bit, not a lot.

I had to replace the valves and paid a machine shop for the bore hone and the valve job and setting up the springs and all that. Total in machine work was something like $1500 if I recall. If you added in the cam which I already had and springs and all the BS, it would probably cost $2K or more to duplicate what I had done. How cheap do you want? What is the goal here? If you're not looking to make a bunch of power you might be better off getting a used L28 and dropping that in.

Have you found a local shop to help with the build? I know a few in Orange County that I could give you the names of.. If you find a good Inland Empire shop, please let me know.

Good luck and welcome to the Z boards....

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