October 28, 201014 yr Author comment_334486 Next step.......I removed all brackets and clips for the auto shifter from the console. I ordered the (8) clips from black dragon. I bought the inner and outter boot from Mike at Banzai. I know how to install the inner boot, but is there a secret to installing the outter (leather) boot? Do I Start from the front of the opening or side or rear with installing the clips? Do I fold the edges of the leather or just hold it flat against the lip and start clipping it on? Any advice would be appreciated. Guy Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37473-73-auto-removed/?&page=2#findComment-334486 Share on other sites More sharing options...
October 28, 201014 yr comment_334507 It doesn't matter where you start. Just fold a little on the edge so the clip touches the boot on either side of the lip on the console opening. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37473-73-auto-removed/?&page=2#findComment-334507 Share on other sites More sharing options...
October 28, 201014 yr Author comment_334540 Roger that......Thanks Steve. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37473-73-auto-removed/?&page=2#findComment-334540 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 4, 201014 yr Author comment_335094 We installed the new L24 in the 73 tonight without the transmission being in the car. I hooked up all gas, alternator and electrical wires less the starter of course (no transmission). I noticed the linkage for the carbs that starts at the accelerator pedal linkage is a different diminsion than the early cars. The bracket that the connecting linkage slides into on the firewall has two spacers to extend the bracket about an inch and a quarter forward. Were the dimensions on the 73 cars different from the early cars? What combination of linkage do I need to make the accelerator linkages work? Thanks Guy Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37473-73-auto-removed/?&page=2#findComment-335094 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 4, 201014 yr comment_335101 Is that the first time you mentioned the new engine? I don't recall reading that before. The linkages could be different, especially if you had the flat-top carburetors before the swap. I'm not sure how to adapt the linkages, though. You might try searching at hybridz.org (emphasis on search since they understandably don't like constantly repeating answers). I would be surprised if they didn't have information on swapping out flat-tops for round-tops. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37473-73-auto-removed/?&page=2#findComment-335101 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 4, 201014 yr Author comment_335105 Yes Steve, I'm swapping motor and tranny. The original motor had been converted to round tops already, but the linkage from that set-up doesn't work with the 72 engine and new Ztherapy 3 screws. By using an early L24 linkage bar (the one with a plastic connector on each end), it seems to take care of the problem (it's about an inch longer), although the angle is different since that rotating mechanism attached to the firewall where the pedal linkage comes through the firewall (with the rubber boot) is shorter than on the early Z cars. I searched Hybridz to no avail. If anyone has done this swap before and worked out the linkage, let me know. Thanks Guy Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37473-73-auto-removed/?&page=2#findComment-335105 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 4, 201014 yr comment_335108 I can try to remember to take pictures of the linkages on my car, but they aren't pretty. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37473-73-auto-removed/?&page=2#findComment-335108 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 4, 201014 yr Author comment_335135 Beauty is only grease deep! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37473-73-auto-removed/?&page=2#findComment-335135 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 4, 201014 yr comment_335137 Guy, I went through the same thing, its a jig-saw puzzle. Start at the firewall and work forward. I was lucky and had several sets of older linkage parts to choose from. The 73 had a different ballance tube, shorter throttle rod, thus the spacers behind the bracket. The bell crank (that goes over the post welded to the firewall) has several different variations, the two arms are welded at different angles, therefore different lengths of that rod. The rod can be cut and welded to length, same with changing the angle of the arms on the bell crank, to keep from over-caming. There was a thread about it. My over-caming problem was (is) caused by thinner carb spacers & studs. It was cured by bending the shorter rod. It will soon be repaired properly. Bonzi Lon Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37473-73-auto-removed/?&page=2#findComment-335137 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 4, 201014 yr Author comment_335144 Bonzi Lon.....Thanks for that info. Yes... wow,that must be it....the balance tube on the 73 is different from the 72, calling for the shorter throttle shaft. I've got an early throttle shaft also. However, as shown, the bell crank is shorter on the 73.....taller on the early cars, causing the linkage to the throttle shaft to go up at an angle (also shown in your pics). If you come across the post you mentioned please let me know. In the meantime, I'll futz with some different things and maybe get my machine shop to fabricate some parts if necessary. Thanks for everyone's input.....I'll update as I go. When all is done I'll post all pics......it's looking awesome! Guy Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37473-73-auto-removed/?&page=2#findComment-335144 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 9, 201014 yr Author comment_335514 Fired up the new L24 tonight, hooked up to the new MSA premium exhaust system (really worth the extra $50.00) and with the new 5 speed (no more stinkin' automatic). Wow, everything works perfect. The linkage problem solved......I used the early 72 throttle bar, removed the spacers and the throttle linkage even at an ascending angle works perfect (thanks Bonzi and Bruce Palmer). The engine is running .040 over pistons, L28 exhaust swirl valve, L24 intake swirl valve, and an Isky .480 lift Stage II camshaft with Isky valve springs, low profile Felpro Ford valve seals and new rocker arms. The shift boot was probably the hardest part of the job (my fingers are killing me from pushing on the clips), but it came out perfect. I'll try to get my son (Five and Dime) to download and post the pics. It's beautiful! Thanks for everyone's help......it was fun! Guy Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37473-73-auto-removed/?&page=2#findComment-335514 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 9, 201014 yr comment_335535 Glad you got it figured out. I was stumped too, so had to compare with #110 and a box of parts. Yep, those clips are tight, don't want that boot coming off during power shifts. Bonzi Lon Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37473-73-auto-removed/?&page=2#findComment-335535 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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