How hard is it to replace the filler neck

[mlc240z]

OK, guys.

Need some experienced help.

Bought a new filler neck for the winter tear-down.

You know winter tear-down, the time when since she's off the road and you might as well do the stuff you've been putting off because you don't want to waste good driving weather (replace the antenna mast, replace the LED in the radio, add the equalizer, R/T diff mount, half-shaft U-Joints etc, etc,).

Been getting a whiff of gas on a fill-up so figured this would be a good solution for a 40 yr old part.

Have heard horror stories about the difficulty of replacing the neck.

Plan is to drop the tank, replace the sending unit, re-plumb some of the PO's vent hoses and the filler neck.

Is it that difficult to align/attach the neck while remounting the tank?

Is it that tight trying to attach while balancing the tank on a floor jack or is it just a PITA I can survive?

Any tips?

I like easy, so anything you've got will be appreciated.

Edited October 29, 2010 by mlc240z

[Walter Moore]

Make sure the tank is empty, but I don't remember it being excessively hard, just a hassle.

[Powderkeg]

Bart,

Take a look at the article right below your thread.

To answer your question: It's not difficult... just time consuming. I did my 76 280Z about a month ago and replaced all hoses, POR-15'd the inside and outside of the tank, added a Fram G3 filter before the fuel pump, and replaced the fuel sending unit gasket.

It will be a lot easier if you jack up the back of your car. Make sure you have the car supported by other jacks.

Loosen the straps and lower the tank (Empty).

There are 3 screws that hold the filler neck collar in place. This is accessed underneath the filler collar. Sometimes they are covered by dirt.

I attached my filler tube to my tank (after heating it with a heating gun) then fed it through the filler hole and it took all of about 6 minutes. The filler tube is pretty stout so don't be too concerned about "hurting it".

Make sure any hoses that you replace are fuel rated and NOT heater hose. There is one hose from the tank to the vent tank that has 180 degree bend. This hose is not readily available and most people use 5/8" fuel hose. You can make the bend by getting a lot of the hose and letting it bend naturally.

You can also get a piece of 1/2 stainless steel tubing (about 6 inches in length) and have it bent to 180 degrees by a machine shop, muffler shop, or buy a tube bender.

Just make sure that whatever technique you use make sure that you don't have any kinks in your fuel hoses or your car will stall ( I speak from experience).

If you do use POR-15 just make sure you take your time. Follow the directions and you'll do fine. It took me about a week to treat the tank: 3 days to air out the tank and another 4 days to allow the POR-15 to cure. Start the tank early in the day as it takes a couple of hours to treat the tank.

Make sure that you POR-15 the tank straps too as they are hard to come by.

This topic has been covered extensively here and at HybridZ.com

Search articles here entitled: "Care in removing Gas Tank Parts" and "Another Fuel System Question".

Good luck.

Dave Ruiz

[FastWoman]

As others have said, not particularly hard. You'll need someone to help you. Removing the interior trim to get to the fuel/air separator was a bit of a hassle. You have to remove almost all of it (the pieces across the top, tail lights, quarter window, and then quarter panel). You also have to pull off the gas strut briefly to pull that last piece of trim, at least in a '78. Might not have to in an earlier year.

Undo all the lines first. When you drop the tank, lay it down on your tummy, and have a friend help you pull it off of you. When you reinstall, put the filler neck on the tank first, and have your friend guide it up the hole and shove it over the metal inlet neck. Easy.

Get your 5/8" fuel line either from a tractor supply or by mail order from Hampton Rubber of Hampton, VA. (They don't usually do mail order, but they'll accommodate you if you call them and ask nicely.)

FAIW, your filler neck might be OK. Mine is made from some indestructable rubber like neoprene. It might be the fuel vent hoses at fault. Also inspect the paint on the separator for any tell-tale signs of leaking welds or solder joints. Mine had to be repaired.

Have fun. It's not a hard job but does take some time.

[mlc240z]

Thanks all.

Just was looking for the 'hidden' tips you might have picked up from actually doing the job.

Sounds pretty straight forward.

PO had replaced at least some of the vent lines, and I only get a small whiff of gas on a full tank which goes away fairly quickly.

Am pulling the tank to at least paint it, replace sending unit etc. and I normally try to refresh everything else connected while a part is off the car. I prefer to do it once, and then move on.

Thanks again.

Edited October 29, 2010 by mlc240z

[EScanlon]

An earlier vehicle, like the OP's 71 does NOT have a Hatch Support Strut on the passenger side, which is where the Gas Filler Neck goes.

My tips:

Jack car, remove right rear tire.

Remove access flap at back of wheel well

Loosen tank straps so you can access the Fuel Filler clamp.

Remove Gas Cap and Mounting Ring, remove Rubber Splash Flap.

Remove plastic interior pieces, both the Tail-Light cover and the Passenger Side.

Disconnect vent hose going to Fuel Filler Tube

From the outside, squeeze outer lip of tube and insert into vehicle.

From below, remove the three bolts holding the lower bracket onto the filler neck.

Disconnect the filler neck from the tank, and proceed to push the neck up into the interior.

From the interior pull out the neck.

I've summarized and undoubtedly someone will nit-pick it, but I hope you get the general idea.

E

[mlc240z]

Got it, Enrique.

I love step-by-steps. Even an idiot like me can follow them.:stupid:

Can always count on the Z-gurus

You da man, thanks.