Hi Gang,

1977 280Z with roughly 130.000 miles.

Ran beautifully for the first year of ownership - sat over the winter -wasn't properly winterized - new battery and fresh gas in the following spring, and Voila.................... no start:mad: Spins real strong, but no start.

If I spray "engine start" directly into the MAF, she starts and runs as long as my finger is on the spray nozzle. Once I stop spraying, she shuts off moments later.

My prognosis: there's no fuel reaching the injectors, so I assumed the fuel pump was bad:ermm:

I own a 1994 Acura Legend that had a similar "no start" issue but the problem turned out to be the fuel pump main relay. The solder dry’s & cracks, and the electrical contact loses it's connection over time.

Am I barking up the wrong tree with the fuel pump, and have any of you had no start issues directly connected to a main relay?

Thanks in advance........

Edited November 3, 201014 yr by neveragain55
Spelling Error

Truly odd here of late. I'm reading more posts about FI motors running poorly. Don't know what to say other than.... well, y'all know nyuck nyuck

When you think about the age of these cars and how oxidation and rust plays a factor, it makes sense.

I chalk it all off to old age. Unfortunately in the interim "nyuck nyuck" doesn't help me, but I appreciate the response anyway.

If any bursts of clarity or revelations on this issue comes to anyone, please don't hesitate to chime in.

Ciao............

Check voltage going back to the fuel pump. Verify fuel lines aren't clogged. Verify fuel filter isn't clogged.

I believe the FSM will also have some trouble shooting guides. Get a copy of the fuel injection bible. I think Blue has a link to it on his site and XenonS30, too.

Thanks so much Steve..................... will do all.

A problem area is the wiring harness connector just inside the passenger firewall. The connector is just slightly inadequate to carry the current for the fuel pump. You might find the plastic around that pin a bit "melty." (At least it was on mine.) After refreshing the connection a few times and still having that connection fail, I finally clipped the wire out of the connector on both sides and connected it via a bullet connector. Problem solved.

But of course it could also be the fuel pump relay or any number of other things. The best test is to hook up a gauge and see if you have fuel pressure. Absent a gauge, see if the hoses are harder and less squeezable after you crank the ignition and supposedly pressurize the fuel rail. (It takes pressure a very long time -- even a few days, if your check valve and injectors are in good shape -- for your system to lose its pressure.) You can also break loose a hose connection and see if fuel sprays (very messy -- no smoking!!).

If you have pressure, but still no fuel, check for continuity between the #1 pin on your ECU connector (harness side) and the (-) terminal on your ignition coil. If the ECU doesn't receive signal from the ignition system via this connection, the injectors won't fire.

Good luck!

hey i drive a 1976 280z, well was driving and now im having the same problem and cant figure out what it is. just one morning i went to start the car. it turns over and wants to start its just not getting gas im assuming, so i took out my fuel pump. my fuel filters changed them my fuel pump ran just fine so i installed it back in. i checked for spark had a spark. although one of my fuel filters, (the on closter to the gas tank) doesnt have gas in it. i went to start my car then went to see if the filters were getting gas. the one next to the engine had gas in it but the on that was next to the gas tank did not, does this mean that my fuel pump isnt strong enough?

I would check all of the fundamentals...

• Check the EFI lead to the positive side of the battery.
  
• Check the Fusible Links.
  
• Check to make sure that you have a spark/proper timing.
  
• Check Fuel Pump operation.
  
• Do you have Fuel at the Rail?
  
• Check/Change Fuel Filter.
  
• Check/Change Fuel Pressure Regulator.
  
• Check connections to the AFM (No MAF), TPS.
  
• Test AFM and TPS operation.
  
• Check Ignition Module.
  
• Check wire issue noted by 'FastWoman'.
  

I believe that if you do these things in conjunction with the EFI Bible, you will discover your problem.

Be sure to post your findings on this thread so that others may benefit.

Good luck

Wow, thanks everybody......................... this is the reason why I love these forums so much.

Promise to get back to everybody after this weekend.

Turns out it was the fuel pump relay gang................... Thanks for all the help & addvice

Glad you found the problem. In Bruce's defense for the "nyuck nyuck" comment, perhaps you're unaware that he sells carbureators (Z Therapy). It was meant in humor.

Oh I wasn't bothered at all by Bruce's comments, truly:)

I've posted other issues on this site and he's always been very helpful, I'm just glad my car starts:classic:

Ciao...........