Hey Mike, Bob, Thanks for the good info on the colors. I like the color, and it'll certainly stay that way. The car needs to be painted though, and one question I've had as I consider that is: How do you ensure you repaint it the same color? Can you order "1970 Datsun Paint Code #907?" I've never had a car painted before, and I can't help but think they'll look at me funny if I ask that question.

Arne - Thanks for the reassurance. It's been cool most of the days I've driven it, and I wonder (worry) about what'll happen as it gets warmer. It'll be the second summer I've had it, and while it didn't overheat last summer (nor do I remember where the gauge typically sat), we've done lots of work since then too. Never know what changing part A will do to part B...

That being said, I've had it out the past few weekends. Running without issue.

Thanks Mike, never seen that info before and I've never seen another BRG with black interior either, but glad to know it is factory. It shouldn't be too hard to get Paint to match. I believe most Paint dealers can still find the formula to make it and if not, they can scan a good section of the paint and match it that way too. Mine has been repainted, except under the hood and you can't tell a difference in the paint color at all. There will be some gloss difference, because at least here in So. Cal. no paint shop shoots single stage paint. It's all base and clear coat, so the gloss is a little different. Original Z's did not have two stage paint applications.

Bob

Edited April 13, 201113 yr by bobc

Thanks Bob, that answers how to get the same color. Much appreciated. Now I need to figure out how to get my bumpers to shine again.

Quick update:

- Installed Dave's HLH and PLH.

- Removed old "US Indymag" wheels and threw on a set from the '81 ZX Turbo

- Started trying to polish chrome bits. Some of them are actually shining up.

Hi, Bill; Hi, everyone.

While scrolling down I again happened upon this thread, and

noticed a few things I hadn't noticed earlier. Specifically, I

paid closer attention to the documentation and observed the

original base price (MSRP) of $3526, which is exactly that of

our #06289. But I was astonished to note that tinted glass

and rear window defroster were listed as optional at extra cost.

That's the first time I had ever seen or heard of that, and is

yet another evidence of how certain dealers were being slick at

jacking up the cost (and their profit margin) back when the Z

was a rare commodity.

Next, FWIW, although either brown (tan/butterscotch) or

black were each available "from the beginning," the former

always seemed by far to be the predominant interior color. I

was a little disappointed when we bought our #00171 since it,

too, has a black interior; my preference w/BRG would have

been the tan. But being the original, and not wanting to go to

the effort and expense, it has remained black. I have "consoled"

myself with the knowledge that it is the "rare" combination!

All Z Best,.......................Rick (and Kathy, of course)

This is a great thread! Keep up the good work. Seems like you are doing everything the right way!

Weather has gotten nice, been doing more driving than fixing. But, the next big project is tackling the dash and all it's electrical oddities. 'New' dash wiring harness (PO hacked mine to pieces for various reasons), gauges (green housings on mine are painted), LEDs to brighten things up, and a radio ('72/'73 Hitachi AM/FM).

Side note: Is it typical for the Oil Pressure gauge to drop really low, hovering just above 0psi, while idling? I noticed the other night that at traffic lights, it dipped very low, but when driving it was back just below the half-way point on the gauge. I've read a bit where folks suggest it's the oil pressure sending unit. But I've also read you're supposed to get about 10psi per 1,000rpm, thus, idling around 700rpm would put the needle safely around 7psi (or, hovering just above 0psi on the gauge). Car wasn't running any differently. Thoughts?

Side note: Is it typical for the Oil Pressure gauge to drop really low, hovering just above 0psi, while idling? I noticed the other night that at traffic lights, it dipped very low, but when driving it was back just below the half-way point on the gauge. ...

If you are running the original sending unit, I believe that is very normal. Mine operates about the same on HLS30-02614. The oil pressure gauge seems to have a mind of its own.

Side note: Is it typical for the Oil Pressure gauge to drop really low, hovering just above 0psi, while idling? I noticed the other night that at traffic lights, it dipped very low, but when driving it was back just below the half-way point on the gauge. ...

If you are running the original sending unit, I believe that is very normal. Mine operates about the same on HLS30-02614. The oil pressure gauge seems to have a mind of its own.

Thanks, MotorMan,

Perhaps it's been doing that all along, and this is the first time I noticed the gauge while idling. I'll monitor it. I haven't replaced the sending unit, but I also can't be sure that it hasn't been done at some point in the last 40 years.

I have been following the story of your Z with great interest. My '72's oil pressure also registers slightly above "0" at idle. It has 90k orig. miles and appears to have the orig. oil sending unit. Like you, I'm also resurrecting an early Z (photos of it when it was new are in the "Vintage Photos" section...look for an orange '72 with a half white vinyl top and Calif. plates) with clapped out paint, mostly original, a fairly good driver (even with crap paint it still attracts a lot of attention...esp. when I drop off my 12 year-old daughter at school...the boys her age go NUTS over it). I'm going to be replacing the shocks and rear susp. bushings soon...it's good to hear that Monroe still offers replacements...I will go with parts that are as close to original as possible while restoring my Z and will buy the Monroes...I even put the original steel wheels and fugly hubcaps back on it with Toyo skinny radials (the orig. spare is a Toyo radial). The car still pulls smoothly up to 6,500 rpm and chirps the tires at the shift to 2nd. It's great that you put an original '70 steering wheel back in it, and the Hitachi AM-FM is also very cool. It appears the original early Zs are worth the most...everyone likes time machines. Good luck with your Z...great color, BTW.

slightly related, on my 280, the oil pressure was just slightly above zero at idle but would come up while driving. I just replaced the sending unit a while back and now it's much higher and reads strong pressure at idle. I'm sure it's just the sending unit.