Does Energy Suspension or any other aftermarket company make a transmission mount for the original L26-4 speed combo? Mine is shot and I don't wanna shell out $70 for the factory replacement. I've searched everywhere but came up empty.

I have the link on another puter but you might search for the rt mount and it is on that thread. I think it is actually a smallblock chevy poly trans. mount. I think Summit carries it.

I have the link on another puter but you might search for the rt mount and it is on that thread. I think it is actually a smallblock chevy poly trans. mount. I think Summit carries it.

I'm aware that the RT diff mount uses a Chevy trans mount, but i'm looking for a replacement for the factory transmission mount. If the Chevy mount works for that too, that'd be awesome.

You should contact Energy Suspensions about this. They have a live chat thing with the tech guy, and he seems friendly. With my kit, I got two bushings for the transmission crossmember, which are cylindrical like the control arm bushings.

I had asked this question previously but received no response. Installing the GM energy suspension mount would lower the diff about 3/4", and this would interfere with my rear sway bar (the front diff flange would be grinding on the bar). I am going to try to heavily carve up the GM mount and still utilize the stock lower mount to preserve the position of the diff. For those of you that have suspended the diff from the top using the GM mount, how did you NOT interfere with the sway bar?

I had asked this question previously but received no response. Installing the GM energy suspension mount would lower the diff about 3/4", and this would interfere with my rear sway bar (the front diff flange would be grinding on the bar). I am going to try to heavily carve up the GM mount and still utilize the stock lower mount to preserve the position of the diff. For those of you that have suspended the diff from the top using the GM mount, how did you NOT interfere with the sway bar?

I repeat....this thread is NOT about a differential mount.

Thanks to TomoHawk for the info. I'll look into it.

http://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-strengthened-transmission-mount-s30-s130-58208

Nice to now that's out there. Thanks for posting that link. I wish I had one. 1.5 times as strong as stock.

I got $105 for price at today's exchange rate though. Which, coincidentally, is exactly 1.5 times the $70 that g9m3c did not want to shell out.

Edited November 16, 201014 yr by Zed Head

Nice to now that's out there. I wish I had one. 1.5 times as strong as stock.

I got $105 for price at today's exchange rate though. Which, coincidentally, is exactly 1.5 times the $70 that g9m3c did not want to shell out.

That's exactly what I thought.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SDC02F/10-2240

You should contact Energy Suspensions about this. They have a live chat thing with the tech guy, and he seems friendly. With my kit, I got two bushings for the transmission crossmember, which are cylindrical like the control arm bushings.

Has anyone else had serious trouble getting the crossmember bushings to fit? Mine protrude enough that I can't get the piece to mount to the car. I've tried a vise, a homemade press and hammering, but no luck. Any tips?

Thanks!

Edit: FYI, this is a '75 280Z and I'm using MSA's urethane bushings

Edited February 28, 201114 yr by cegrover

Is it the urethane that won't squeeze in or the center metal tube?

I've found that slipping a couple of greased gasket material scrapers, wood putty appliers, or drywall mud tools (basically any thin piece of stiff metal) between both sides of the bushing and the sides of the mount will help them slide in, at least for the front transverse link bushings.

Is it the urethane that won't squeeze in or the center metal tube?

I've found that slipping a couple of greased gasket material scrapers, wood putty appliers, or drywall mud tools (basically any thin piece of stiff metal) between both sides of the bushing and the sides of the mount will help them slide in, at least for the front transverse link bushings.

It's the urethane itself. I can get them to compress together in the vise and with a homemade press (long threaded rod with big washers, one wing nut and a regular nut, but they don't stay in when pressure is released.

Good idea on the thin metal - will try that. I also may use a C clamp to try to keep them compressed and start wedging them in.