'76 280Z Question on dist/manifold vacuum, dist timing, fuel pressure, brake booster

[Jennys280Z]

The bushing install is a big job, for sure. I'm sure you could do it if you put your mind to it, but it will be a major PITA. It will involve a lot of work, a lot of PB plaster, a lot of burning out old bushings with a torch and cutting sleeves out with a hack saw. Also, I wouldn't bother with the bushings without doing the springs and strut cartridges as well, but thats just me. Unless you are just looking for a big project to learn from, I'd consider just paying someone to do it honestly. It took me about a week and a half to do it, working several hours a night.

Are you building a track car cozye?

Okay so FastWoman makes a good point that if my car is just for the street I shouldn't install polyurethane, but in the interests of better handling, is there any "weak spot" in the Z's suspension that would really benefit from some polyurethane bushings? That is, go with rubber bushings, but use polyurethane ones in two or three places that will still be "Streetable" but will make a noticeable difference in handling?

I'm not saying I don't want to take my car to the track either. I would LOVE that!!! And a teacher sitting next to me while I'm driving please!

That job is above me, cozye. You're a pro compared to me and if it took you that long, it'd take me 3 months or most likely never because I'd get stuck and not be able to finish. Plus, I have no experience with torches and saws (or PB Blaster either for that matter). And I'm not physically strong compared to the average human so I better just find someone else to do it. But who? Are there suspension specialists? Should I try to find some racing company? They'd probably have the experience to do it.

Bushings, Coilovers, and fatter sway bars! Should that about do it for a rebuilt suspension? Oh God I can see the money going out the window already. NOOOOOOO!

[Jennys280Z]

Also on the clutch bleed, read the manual. It's a bit different. Once you get some fluid going in the clutch line, all you have to do is keep pumping the pedal with the bleed screw slightly open, with a tube attached and the hose down in a jar of brake fluid. you don't have to close the bleed screw when letting off the clutch pedal like you do when you do brakes.

In my '76 FSM it says to do it the old fashioned way like brakes.

But I did it your way and it seemed to work great!

I didn't install any clutch parts yet but I did flush and bleed the system. There was a layer of thick black in the brake fluid about 2" deep by the time the fluid in the clutch MC stayed clear.

Thanks for the warning how quickly the MC evacuates of fluid too. Either three quick pumps of the pedal or two slow ones and it was already time to top it off again.

I'm a little worried if my old master cylinder can stand the strain of what is likely greater pressure from this cleaner fluid in a bled system.

I gathered some of the dark spots in the fluid together and it's definitely black rubber. I don't expect the fluid to stay clear for long. But for my first experience this was great.

The clevis pin for the clutch pedal under the dash looks extraordinarily difficult to get at (the reason why I didn't install the new MC when I bled). I thought the one for the brake pedal was hard

Edited March 22, 2011 by Jennys280Z

[sblake01]

Shouldn't be a problem. If it was sealing with that 'gunk' in the system it shouldn't have a problem with clean fluid.

[Jennys280Z]

Shouldn't be a problem. If it was sealing with that 'gunk' in the system it shouldn't have a problem with clean fluid.

Phew! xoxo

[sblake01]

You location says 'Woodstock'. As in the Woodstock of White Lake/Bethel/Max Yasgur's farm fame (August 15-18, 1969)? I was there!!

Edited March 22, 2011 by sblake01

[Jennys280Z]

You location says 'Woodstock'. As in the Woodstock of White Lake/Bethel/Max Yasgur's farm fame (August 15-18, 1969)? I was there!!

Nope just a boring little town in GA. But I'm a little jealous that you were there