traced problem as far as ignition switch. Jumpered 12v to ignition switch, the results were - relays working, starter motor running ok, fuseable link ok, thermo switch wire attached ok. Ignition switch will not turn off with it jumpered to 12v.

checking continuity to ground from igniton today and ignition relay.There must be a fuse out from the ignition switch to its 12v source?

Where is the fuse?

The ignition relay may be stuck open?

Should the (-) side of the coil be grounded?

The coil wiring checks out ok from the ignition module, all connections are good.

Battery good

Battery ground good (new)

Battery hot wire good.

Ground wire from distributor good.

Ignition module is tested and good.

Wires to EIS computer good

Coil tested and good

Cap rotor good

Blue wire to minus side of coil

Black with white stripe to + side of coil

replaced 27 year old ignition switch

Service manual shows power transister on (-) side of coil. The newer coils have this built in for electronic ignitions.

If anyone has had no power to ignition switch problem - let me know.

Check your fusible links.

Steve J

I found bad wire in fuseable link. Thanks!

Now I just need engine to start.

Checking for fire at the plugs.

Thanks Again

threez745

I just recently had a locksmith replace the ignition tumblers portion because the "kep stop" broke and was allowing the key to go "too far" inside the tumblers and thus the key will not line up properly. The crapy thing about it, is that I have to have 2 keys now- 1 for the ignition and 1 ( older key) for the door. $180 smackers.

Double check your firing order.

1-5-3-6-2-4 counterclockwise. Number 1 is on the front. Inline spark checkers can be good to see if you're getting spark.

Don't want to hijack this thread, but perhaps my problem may be same of related. My car is a 280zx NA, 1981. Tell me if I need to create a new thread. Engine keeps running , sometimes, not always, after I turn key key from On back to either Acc or Off. Sometimes the engine just keeps running, I can remove the key, but when I put the key back in and turn to On engine will stop. Could there such a thing as a sticky ignition switch? Never had this problem until I installed a MSD box. Engine starts and runs fine, it is just the turning off that is a problem now. MSD technician says I must try install a diode on the Lamp light wire coming from the alternator to regulate the flow of current. That to me would make sense if there was just a slight charge left in the system enough to trigger the ECU and SMD box. Initially the engine would run-on only when key in Acc position, and about for a minute or so (I guess till it runs out of fuel), but now since yesterday it would just keep running even if key is removed from ignition. That indicates to me that the fuel pump, alt, ecu, msd all gets power so somehow there is a connection or faulty ingition switch problem. PLEASE HELP with ideas on what to check...Im not a technician but I can ask the Nissan service folks to check for me. Thanks

Not many people on this list will have the slightest clue about ZX wiring, including me. (I'd need a schematic diagram and/or some familiarity with that series.) However, these ignition switches and ignition locks do wear out.

If you want to know what's happening with your power, put a volt meter on various circuits in your fuse block. You'll have an accessory circuit and an ignition circuit. Obviously the accessory circuit should be energized with the key in the ACC position, and the ignition circuit should be energized with the key in the IGN position. Neither circuit should be energized in the OFF position. If you don't find this to be the case, either your ignition switch is bad, or something is wired wrongly (or possibly shorted).

You should be able to find a Nissan factory service manual for your car on Ebay or Amazon (used, of course). That would be enormously helpful for locating the problem.

IMHO...

Feedback through the ignition could be correct. Those of us who have upgraded our 70-77 S30s to an internally regulated alternator needed to add the diode. This article gives the details for a 240Z.

Also, you could be getting some cross-connections on your ignition switch due to corrosion.

It could be a combination of both, too.

You could try spraying your ignition switch with something like Caig Deoxit. You might still need to replace the switch.

My 1976 model did not need the diode when I converted the internally regulated alternator. I think that the diode is needed only for the 240s and maybe the 260. The changeover might be when they went to voltmeters, from ammeters. Ammeters pass current, voltmeters don't (at least not in significant amount, by design)(as I understand things, from my limited electrical knowledge).

The advice from MSD does not sound right.

You can get the 1982 manual here, if you want to dig in to the wiring - http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html

Edited November 29, 201014 yr by Zed Head

Problem resolved by installing a diode on the L-lamp wire of the alternator

I'm glad that fixed it for you. Did you use one of the diodes listed in the article I linked? If so, thank Carl Beck & son for hosting that article.