Posted November 19, 201014 yr comment_336418 I am having a perplexing problem. I pulled the window frame out of the driver door on my '73 to install something or other I don't recall now. I have been having trouble getting it back in place. I have tried a variety of window up, window half up etc... What's the secret? I have ruled out stealing the door of Bill Madamba's car and having the paint matched. He's too nice a guy and would notice the missing door if he ever did anything other than go to dog shows... :stupid: Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37724-door-window-frame-240z/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 19, 201014 yr comment_336422 You removed the Stainless FRAME from the door yet left the window pane IN the door? That's the problem, the pane slides up and down the slot in the frame. If you don't align that pane in the groove you're not going to get far.E Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37724-door-window-frame-240z/#findComment-336422 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 19, 201014 yr Author comment_336423 So if I understand you correctly, the pane must be released from the scissors mechanism and put in the frame, then the frame gets reinstalled and the window cinched back into the scissors? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37724-door-window-frame-240z/#findComment-336423 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 19, 201014 yr comment_336426 So if I understand you correctly, the pane must be released from the scissors mechanism and put in the frame, then the frame gets reinstalled and the window cinched back into the scissors?I don't know if this is the "right" way to do it, but this is what worked for me.Before the door seal was on the car, inserted the door frame into the door, window-down. I closed the door to give me a guide to general position of the frame to the chassis. Then I opened the door and aligned the frame "tilt" to match the window rail. It seemed to work fairly well. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37724-door-window-frame-240z/#findComment-336426 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 19, 201014 yr comment_336432 I'll admit I'm perplexed.I've always fully removed the pane before I removed the frame, then installed the frame first on re-assembly.At a guess, have the pane all the way down to insert the frame's leading edge into the door body, and slowly guide the rear edge of the frame down over the rear edge of the pane. Once the frame is inserted all the way, carefully align the pane within the slots in the whisker seal and roll the pane up. Now you can finish tightening the frame.But I emphasize, this is a guess.I think it would be easier to finish removing the pane, mount the frame then insert the pane.FWIWE Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37724-door-window-frame-240z/#findComment-336432 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 19, 201014 yr comment_336438 Re-install of the frame is a pain but I've done it several times now in prepping for paint. It's tricky. I always do it with the window fully down and door open. I also use a flashlight to see what is going on in there. Make sure the door handle rod/mechanisms are out of the way. They need to be close to their 'completely assembled' position (I had the door handles off, thus causing the problem). They have a tendency to lean over and block the frame from sliding down. I broke one on my '73 by not checking for this at the very start. As Escanlon said, make sure the window is in the frame groove as you slide it down. They will not be close to each other, however, until the frame is almost completely in. Focus on the back part of the frame during install. There is a hump (metal attachment protrusion) on the back part of the frame that causes most of the difficulty. You need to get this past the internal door latch mechanism. This is easiest done by keeping the window frame as far forward as possible during the install. Slide the back part in first about 4 -5 inches. Now make sure the forward part of the frame is in the forward slot. It goes in at a bit of an angle with the back part lower. Once it stops after about 6-8 inches, push the back part of the frame forward to help negotiate past the door mechanism. Use your flashlight to see what is contacting. Once the 'hump' is past the mechanism, the frame goes in easy. At this point nudge the window as needed so it goes into the groove. Hope that works for you. Even worse is putting door handles on Best Regards, Rich Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37724-door-window-frame-240z/#findComment-336438 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 19, 201014 yr Author comment_336456 Food for thought guys... Thanks... Door handle is installed so that isn't a problem In fact, that is why the window frame is out. I couldn't get my hands in there to reassemble with the window frame in place. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/37724-door-window-frame-240z/#findComment-336456 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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