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Door window frame 240Z


conedodger

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I am having a perplexing problem. I pulled the window frame out of the driver door on my '73 to install something or other I don't recall now. I have been having trouble getting it back in place. I have tried a variety of window up, window half up etc...

What's the secret?

I have ruled out stealing the door of Bill Madamba's car and having the paint matched. He's too nice a guy and would notice the missing door if he ever did anything other than go to dog shows... :stupid:

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So if I understand you correctly, the pane must be released from the scissors mechanism and put in the frame, then the frame gets reinstalled and the window cinched back into the scissors?

I don't know if this is the "right" way to do it, but this is what worked for me.

Before the door seal was on the car, inserted the door frame into the door, window-down.

I closed the door to give me a guide to general position of the frame to the chassis. Then I opened the door and aligned the frame "tilt" to match the window rail. It seemed to work fairly well.

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I'll admit I'm perplexed.

I've always fully removed the pane before I removed the frame, then installed the frame first on re-assembly.

At a guess, have the pane all the way down to insert the frame's leading edge into the door body, and slowly guide the rear edge of the frame down over the rear edge of the pane. Once the frame is inserted all the way, carefully align the pane within the slots in the whisker seal and roll the pane up. Now you can finish tightening the frame.

But I emphasize, this is a guess.

I think it would be easier to finish removing the pane, mount the frame then insert the pane.

FWIW

E

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Re-install of the frame is a pain but I've done it several times now in prepping for paint. It's tricky.

I always do it with the window fully down and door open. I also use a flashlight to see what is going on in there.

Make sure the door handle rod/mechanisms are out of the way. They need to be close to their 'completely assembled' position (I had the door handles off, thus causing the problem). They have a tendency to lean over and block the frame from sliding down. I broke one on my '73 by not checking for this at the very start.

As Escanlon said, make sure the window is in the frame groove as you slide it down. They will not be close to each other, however, until the frame is almost completely in.

Focus on the back part of the frame during install. There is a hump (metal attachment protrusion) on the back part of the frame that causes most of the difficulty. You need to get this past the internal door latch mechanism. This is easiest done by keeping the window frame as far forward as possible during the install.

Slide the back part in first about 4 -5 inches. Now make sure the forward part of the frame is in the forward slot. It goes in at a bit of an angle with the back part lower. Once it stops after about 6-8 inches, push the back part of the frame forward to help negotiate past the door mechanism. Use your flashlight to see what is contacting. Once the 'hump' is past the mechanism, the frame goes in easy. At this point nudge the window as needed so it goes into the groove.

Hope that works for you. Even worse is putting door handles on :ermm:

Best Regards,

Rich

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