Dull paint

[yoshi_w]

Ill try that, would I be able to just purchase this stuff at kragens or something? and sadly, some paint has chipped off in areas so it will definitely need a repaint in the future, thanks for ll the advice so far!

[cygnusx1]

Hard to tell from your photo but that does not look like it was sprayed with a good paint gun. It looks like it was sprayed from a can. If so, and the paint is healthy enough, you may need to start with 1000 grit wet-sanding. Simple compound and polish will not take out spray-can level orange peel.

Can you get higher resolution photos in sharp focus?

Edited November 27, 2010 by cygnusx1

[yoshi_w]

Ill try to take a photo during the daytime, but i dont have a better camera, sorry. as for the spray can, its entirely possible. if so,what steps after the 1000 grit?

[Jetaway]

Yoshi,

Elbow grease. I'm going to put a pitch in here against sanding it or mechanical buffing -- at least at first -- in favor of starting with less abrasive methods. Carl is absolutely correct about machine buffing being 300% faster than hand buffing, but: 1) if the paint is really shot, you've just dropped $200 for basically nothing and: 2) if you don't know what you are doing and get a little careless, you can easily cause serious damage to the finish.

My suggestion: First, go buy cleaning pads, a bunch of microfiber cloths, rubbing compound, and scratch remover. Second, wash the hell out of it. Third, pick a larger piece of metal (hood, roof, or deck) and then, following the directions hit 1/2 of it with the rubbing compound. I'm guessing you will get a lot of dead paint on the cleaning pad, so be sure to rinse the sucker out regularly. Compare the rubbed vs. original paint. Good enough? If yes, then go on with the rubbing compound. If not, hit the other half with the scratch remover, then the rubbing compound. Is that good enough? If yes, well, there you go, and plan on a long day, don't be surprised if you've spent eight hours by the time your done. If no ...

honestly, I'd drop back and just do the rubbing compound, followed up with a waxing. Then, seriously, repeat the process in a month or two. I mean, it's just going to get rained on anyway. If after hitting it with the scratch remover and rubbing compound the second time, it still doesn't do it for you, then consider the more extreme methods of mechanical buffing or taking sandpaper to it. Or, resign yourself to the fact that it's not going to look good until it's repainted. It wouldn't be a bad idea to find someone you trust who knows something about automotive finishes and ask them if mechanical buffing / sandpapering would do any good before going down that path.

Mother's and Maquire's make good scratch remover and rubbing compounds (can't remember their brand specific -names) but I think the 3M stuff (cleverly called "scratch remover" and "rubbing compound") is a bit better. I've bought it at AutoZone and seen it elsewhere, it does, however, seem to come in and out of stock, so you may have to bug them to order some.

Chris

[Carl Beck]

Yoshi,

Elbow grease. I'm going to put a pitch in here against sanding it or mechanical buffing -- at least at first -- in favor of starting with less abrasive methods. Carl is absolutely correct about machine buffing being 300% faster than hand buffing, but: 1) if the paint is really shot, you've just dropped $200 for basically nothing and: 2) if you don't know what you are doing and get a little careless, you can easily cause serious damage to the finish.

Hi Chris / yoshi_w

Just to make it clear - I recommended an "orbital" or "dual action buffer", not a rotary or direct drive type.

It is close to impossible to damage any finish with an orbital or dual action buffer, that you wouldn't equally damage by hand. The main difference between hand buffing and using an orbital/dual action buffer is that the machine doesn't get tired and it makes more consistent strokes with a larger application pad.

The orbital and dual action buffers run at far lower speeds {160-500 RPM} than the traditional rotary automotive buffers {1000 - 3000 RPM}. Orbital buffers move the polishing pad in the same elliptic/orbital motions as hand polishing, while the true dual action type turn the polishing pad while at the same time making the elliptical orbital paths.

While you can find some on-sale now - the price range for the machines I mentioned are around $129.00 to $149.00 PorterCable/Groits {the Flex is over $300.00}. However $200.00 is closer to the total cost when you include an assortment of buffing pads, polish and wax - and shipping chargers. I still feel that if you buy good tools, you haven't wasted your money. Machine polishing/buffing gives you the best chance to save your paint - and even if the paint is shot on this car, you'll have lots of other cars in the future to use it on.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[cygnusx1]

Guys, it all depends on the finish, type and quality, condition of the paint he has to work with. There is no single right answer until the paint is analyzed. Polishing a rolled-on latex paint, by hand, with a mild polish, is like digging a hole in water. Each case is different. Maguires scratch remover is called Scratch-X. I used it with pretty good results. There are better ones on the market with many levels of "cut" that you can find in a paint shop.

Edited November 27, 2010 by cygnusx1