OK the part works on resistance of electricity, the float moves up, less resistance than down. If it wasn't sending anymore, you have a short repair the spot an it will work. The float cracked seal the crack. lastly the arm stuck from corrosion or gunk clean it. I rarely throw out electrical parts 99% of the time the broken electrical part someone threw out is repairable (minus thing like spark plugs, and points). That is why I have two original 240z alternators. Things that wear out in electrical parts are like condensers, guides and barrings . . .

its not reading short, its reading open. the stat coil is cooked or broken.what then?

The whole thing is cooked I assume? Then you need to get some copper wire and re-spin it the same as the original you also need to match the wire gauge. The tighter the gap between the wire the higher the gauge will read

40 awg wire, the smallest wire size available, has a resistive load of 1.049 ohms per foot. So it would take roughly 96 feet to create a tap resistive winding from 10 to 90 ohms. what do you insulate the winding with to withstand this enviornment (gasoline soaked)? Seems like alot of work for a $60 part.

40 awg wire, the smallest wire size available, has a resistive load of 1.049 ohms per foot. So it would take roughly 96 feet to create a tap resistive winding from 10 to 90 ohms. what do you insulate the winding with to withstand this enviornment (gasoline soaked)? Seems like alot of work for a $60 part.

It wouldn't be bad as long as a got the right wire I'd use my fly tying stuff to help. Usually that isn't what goes bad on these, it's usually the 3 things I first listed.

I'm not disagreeing with you, but, it moves freely, the float is visually fine, has no liquid inside it, and the sender reads infinite across the terminals. So in my mind, the tap is not making contact, or there is a broken solder joint somewhere (an easy fix) or the winding is bad.

That said, I'm going to hook up the meter and test the sender through its range of movement, might be able to eliminate one or more of my theories.

I'm not disagreeing with you, but, it moves freely, the float is visually fine, has no liquid inside it, and the sender reads infinite across the terminals. So in my mind, the tap is not making contact, or there is a broken solder joint somewhere (an easy fix) or the winding is bad.

That said, I'm going to hook up the meter and test the sender through its range of movement, might be able to eliminate one or more of my theories.

I know your not disagreeing with me, you seem to be a lot like me in the fact you like to find out how and ware something failed, and if it is easy to fix. That is how we learn how things work and the weaknesses of things. When I fixed my first one to go out I learned more about that type of meter and has probably helped me out 2-3 times after that.

Wripped it down last night. The tap is worn , the rest was all good. I tweeked it a bit and polished it (the tap). and it reads 10 ohms to 90 ohms on the spot. Great idea, never even occoured to me to repair a part like this one. You-da-man.

Thanks for the complement.

Thanks for the info.