Oil filter questions

[mlaw7]

I've heard all kinds of horror stories about bad things happening to car engines after having the oil changed at a place like Jiffy Lube, such as installing the wrong oil filter, etc.

I've never had my Z's oil changed at one of these places although I have used them with other cars due to the hassle of recycling the old oil. I used to change my own oil all the time years ago but have had my mechanic do it on the Z using OEM Nissan oil filters.

However, I just discovered that AutoZone will recycle the old oil so now that I'm due for an oil change, I'm thinking about just doing it myself this weekend using Castrol 10-30W oil. I know they're available on ebay, etc but was hoping to be able to purchase an OEM oil filter this morning from a Nissan dealership. No luck though.

So here's my question: I've heard that the OEM filter is best because it has an internal check valve that helps it function properly. However, I asked the guy at the Nissan parts counter about this and he told this wasn't started till sometime in the 90's.

Is this true? Can I safely use an aftermarket oil filter such as K&N or Fram?

I'd love to hear your thoughts on which oil filters you use and why. This would also be a good time to ask which viscosity oil you like to use and why. I know the climate, season and engine condition are factors. Also whether there are any things to be on the lookout for when changing the oil that are unique to the Z.

Thanks!

[Gary in NJ]

Any good oil filter (Filter Fram PH8A, Purolator L30001, NAPA 1521) will work fine. For viscosity check the FSM (I'm not sure how cold it gets in TX). I drive my car 9-months and use 10W-40. I tend to use the "high mileage" formulas.

FYI, Walmart will take back used oil.

[5thhorsemann]

I don't know when it started, but the check valve is a fram pattent, which is expired, and pretty much all filter manufacturers are making check valve filters. The idea is to keep the oil from draining into the pan while sitting, and you get immeadiate oil to the bearings at startup.

Nissan, GM, Ford ETC. make cars, not oil filters, nor do they make oil. These sort of components are made for the auto makers, to an engineering spec. by the lowest bidder.

This is why I use Amsoil 100% synthetic with a fram Tough Guard filter.

I'm not putting that many miles on the car yearly to demand bianual oil changes, so I change in the spring as winter is the time when the most condensation accumulates in the pan, synthetic oil allows the water to desolve, or be suspended in the oil as solution, and not seperate like conventional oil. Amsoil claims that you can run their product for 10K miles between changes, don't think I would go that far.

[Powderkeg]

As long as you change your oil on a regular basis I wouldn't be too concerned. All of my driving is stock street and some may advise differently if you are racing.

Use the recommended oil weights given in your FSM and you should be fine.

I've use mostly Castrol and Penzoil 10w-30 in the Summer and 20W-50 in the Winter.

I've used the following oil filters with no problems:

Nissan OEM

Baldwin B120

K&N 3001

Napa 91521

Fram PH8.

There are many who recommend that you stay away from Fram citing poor design.

I like the Nissan and Baldwin filters but seem to be using the Fram filters more because they are readily available.

I can't comment on synthetic oil as I've never used them.

There are also many posts about oil & filters here and on zcar.com.

Good luck

Dave Ruiz:beer:

[Zforce]

K&n 3001

[Walter Moore]

...I've use mostly Castrol and Penzoil 10w-30 in the Summer and 20W-50 in the Winter...

Did you actually mean 10W-30 in the WINTER, and 20W-50 in the SUMMER?

I am not sure where you live, but 20W-50 in cold weather is a really bad idea.

There are several sites that trash Fram filters. I do know that the one Fram that I used had a bad check valve, and was always empty at startup. I generally use one of the following, depending upon the current sales price:

K&N (once.)

Mobil 1 (when Advance Auto runs a special that includes the filter)

Purolator (my normal fall-back)

I use only Mobil 1 oil in all of my cars, but I guess I am different than many on this site. I even use synthetic oil during the break-in period after a rebuild.

[5thhorsemann]

You shouldn't use a full syhthetic durring a break-in, it lubricates too well and it dosen't allow the rings to seat properly, unless of course the tolerances were specified for a synthetic oil to be used, based on the 3 ball wear test.

[FastWoman]

K&N! Very nice filter.

I've never had a problem with the Jiffy Lube type shops. However, if you want the job done with your motor oil and filter of choice, and especially if you want to do something like a motor flush, it's generally better to do it yourself.

[doradox]

You shouldn't use a full syhthetic durring a break-in, it lubricates too well and it dosen't allow the rings to seat properly, unless of course the tolerances were specified for a synthetic oil to be used, based on the 3 ball wear test.

Did you mean clearances and not tolerances?

Steve

[5thhorsemann]

yea, you got me there

[Carl Beck]

I've ran OEM, Fram, Purolator, NAPA - never had a problem with any filter. {FRAM was the only filter specified by the manufacture on my V-12 Ferrari}

I run Mobile 1 in everything. Most of my Z's sit for prolonged periods and really don't get much use. The synthetics leave a film on metal parts longer than the natural oil, they reduce engine operating temperatures by about 10-12 degrees F. here in Florida.

I started using synthetics when the boys and I were restoring and vintage drag racing 60's/70's muscle cars. I didn't like the lifter clatter in the V8 engines on cold start and the big blocks always seemed to run hot. Switching to the synthetics eliminated the lifter clatter on cold start up and lowered the operating temps. {made me a believer}.

In the old days {pre 70's} - - lead in the gasoline, rich running carb's when the chokes were on or hung up, and in general rich mixtures poorly combusted - all combined to pollute the engine oil fairly quickly. Back then you needed to change the oil every 2K miles and usually spark plugs every 6-8K miles.

The problem that still exists in our 70's era Z's is carb's that are out of tune - can still run very rich and the excessive gasoline {unburnt in combustion} can still dilute the engine oil. So oil/filter in the old Z's gets changed every 3-4K miles.

I run my newer vehicles {1990+} 6K on oil and filter. These engines run very clean relative to earlier decades, and I live in Clearwater, Florida - which has some of the cleanest air in the US. Your location and driving conditions might be quite different.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[Powderkeg]

Did you actually mean 10W-30 in the WINTER, and 20W-50 in the SUMMER?

I am not sure where you live, but 20W-50 in cold weather is a really bad idea.

There are several sites that trash Fram filters. I do know that the one Fram that I used had a bad check valve, and was always empty at startup. I generally use one of the following, depending upon the current sales price:

K&N (once.)

Mobil 1 (when Advance Auto runs a special that includes the filter)

Purolator (my normal fall-back)

I use only Mobil 1 oil in all of my cars, but I guess I am different than many on this site. I even use synthetic oil during the break-in period after a rebuild.

Walter,

Thank you.

You are correct. 10W-30 in the Winter and 20W-50 in the summer.

Dave