But my point is i wouldn't put a FRAM on YOUR Briggs & Stratton.

Well said Z train, here is detailed article comparing all the well known filters out there and who really makes them....

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/

Wow, the oil filter debate is only second to the oil debate.

Every automotive/motorcycle/airplane/tractor forum I've ever belonged to in the past 20 years gets dragged through this one. When do we start discussing politics and religion

Hey, you think CAR buffs argue about filters? Try photographers! To use a protective filter or not... Hmmmm....

That said, while I'm still trying to liberate all the PO's crud from my engine, I think I like the sound of the Wix filter, with its graduated filter element. I think I'll make the switch the next time around. Per the great page 74L28Z linked to:

"These appear to have a depth gradient filter element, which uses cotton fibers to progressively trap smaller particles as they get deeper in the filter. This helps maintain good flow as the filter gets plugged." (I like that.)

And if Tiffen made oil filters and not just lens filters, I'm sure they'd be a lot like Frams.

Fastchick-Seafoam is the ticket for your crud.......in your engine....in your car.

Wix is probably the best filter out there.It's all i use on the Datsuns and my Cummins.

Ztrain, I used Rislone in Castrol Syntec for 1000 mi the last time around and am running Chevron Delo right now. Detergent seems to be doing the job -- slowly and gently. After I get the bulk of the crud knocked down to size, I might do a final clean-up round with a Gunk flush. The good news is that I'm seeing about 2/3 metal and 1/3 polymerized black crud right now. Making progress.

Edited November 29, 201014 yr by FastWoman

Are you adding zinc?BTW-Seafoam is a better product.

Zinc for the valve train? No. Is there an additive you like?

I might do the Seafoam before the next oil change. The valves are pretty free, though. I run a bit of B12 in my fuel from time to time.

This is my Zinc of choice. Saw it in the Hagerty magazine. It was used more as a safety precaution than anything else, just in case. Way cheaper per dose as another popular product. About $3.50 compared to $40.

http://www.cam-shield.com/

Bonzi Lon

I am just curious. Has anyone ever experienced and engine failure do to the oil filter? Ever? I've been around thousands of engines. Never ever seen or heard of an engine that failed from an oil filter filtration problem or an outright oil filter failure.

Thanks, Bonzi, I'll pick some up!

Idaho, I don't think it's a matter of engine failure, so much as unnecessary engine wear from particulates that either fail to be trapped or that are re-released. There was of course a time when engines didn't have oil filters at all, and they didn't fail catastrophically from it. However, they also didn't last as long as modern-day engines.

I am just curious. Has anyone ever experienced and engine failure do to the oil filter? Ever? I've been around thousands of engines. Never ever seen or heard of an engine that failed from an oil filter filtration problem or an outright oil filter failure.

Do you wan to rebuild your motor at 75,000 miles or 275,000 miles?

And for the record i saw a friend go past the 1000 ft mark in a 8.90 car BACKWARDS because of a FRAM filter let go.

FRAM is GARBAGE

Edited November 29, 201014 yr by Z train

If the parts store is out of the K&N the Fram HP-1 is ok. The K&N and the Fram HP-1 are the only ones I have seen with a really thick filter can. If I can deform the filter can with my hand it's not going on my engine, I don't car who makes it. The best filter in the world doesnt mean squat if it blows off the engine. I use the ZX turbo pump with the filter bypass valve in the block plugged so i'm not taking any chances with a cheap filter and 80 psi.