Shock tubes

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Well I am in the process of changing out a wheel cylinder, and with the wheel off and the car in the air, I had some time to clean the area pretty well. Well, since I know the PO put on tokiko springs and shocks, I had a look at them.

Is the stock shock tube threaded? Or did he have to thread them on to get the struts in the tubes? I have never done anything with a stock 240Z strut. If I wanted to go to the illumina's, since the shock is already threaded would that make it easier?

[jfa.series1]

The stock tube is threaded internally for the flange nut at the factory - that is how the shock insert is locked into the tube. Here's a few pics of what you are looking at. If you do this, do not attempt to separate the transverse link from the strut, getting out the spindle is a major PITA and probably not needed. My brake components are off because I was doing a complete restore, not required for shock replacement.

Hope this helps.

Jim

[Zedyone_kenobi]

I hear ya, but should I be able to see threads in between the top of the shock tube and the cap where the shock rod comes out. I feel I should take a pick or two.

or should the top of the shock tube that holds the insert in be completely flush with the shock tube itself?

[ChrisZ]

Stephen, i don't really get what you write, it might be a native issue, i will try to explain anyway, the shock tube is threated on the inside and the insert is held in place with a gland nut, whenever you will be able to see some of the threads when the gland nut is tightned down, depends on the actual length of the insert, as long as the insert is held tight in the tube you will be fine, if not and there is a slack, a spacer is needed.

Hope this answer your question.

Chris

[jfa.series1]

My experience is that the flange nut does not seat flush with the top of the tube, you should usually see a couple of threads. Perhaps a build-up of road grime is hiding the threads. Maybe the PO really honked down on them during the installation (not a good practice). By the way - new shock inserts typically come with new flange nuts.

Jim

[jfa.series1]

Correction in terminology - gland nut, not flange nut. Thanks Chris!

[cozye]

If PO put Tokico's on already, why would you put the Tokico illumina's in? I would think that the HP's would be just fine unless you are taking it to the track?

In any case, did he not put the dust boots back on? I'm not sure how you would see the gland nut threads unless there are no boots ? Take a pic. FWIW as Chris said, a few threads from the gland nut will show. Tokico's doc said .5-.15 inch or something is the gap that should be there. It actually tightens down on top of the strut to keep it from moving inside the tube.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

You guys are fantastic as usual. I have no dust boot to speak of. The gland nut has some threads showing and I did not think it should. But you have cleared that up for me quite nicely. Thanks very much

I was thinking of replacing them perhaps next year. Since my tire is off and the back end is up in the air, I found the shock quite easy move up and down before the spring kicked in and a part of my brain said..

"wait, should it do that?"

[ChrisZ]

Just ignore that part of your brain.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

It is hard, I am an engineer, I have to know every little detail about every thing. It is a sickness, and I am on a 10 step program for it.

NOTE: It was a 12 step program, but I improved it.

[Jeff G 78]

There will always be a few threads showing and depending on the inserts, there could be quite a few threads showing. Most inserts come with new gland nuts and I've seen quite a few that are really tall. As long as they clamp the insert tightly into the tube, they are fine. What you don't want is for the nut to bottom on the tube without clamping the insert.

[aldren260]

noob question since we are on this topic, when installing back the full strut assembly back to the car, shud i bolt the three nut ontop of the wheel wells first or start from the bottom first