I took the plunge and purchased LEDs to replace the exterior lights, except for the plate lights. So far I replaced all but the lights under the bumper. I'll probably get to those this weekend. I did check the current flow with the LEDs, and it is now 2.6A. I didn't measure the current before the switch, but I estimated it to be approximately 7.9A. (For the record, I was expecting about 2.9A at this point of changing out the lights.) I purchased all of the bulbs from Superbright LEDs.

Here is what I selected for my 260Z

Front side markers - 67-A9

Rear side markers - 67-R9

Rear stop/tail 1157-R12

Rear turn 1156-R12

Rear tail 67-R9

Front turn 1157-A12

Reverse lights 67-W9

License plate 67-W9

Of course, you need to make sure the electrical connections in your car are in good shape. Also, check the sockets of the side markers. They can and WILL get rusty. I have some replacements sitting in my garage. They will go on my car VERY soon.

Edited December 10, 201014 yr by SteveJ

Steve-

Let us know how this works for you once you get them installed. I had a buddy this fall that had a '65 Cobra totaled due to low visibility in the evening (and a woman not paying attention). Brighter lights are a good thing!!

How are the beam patterns of the bulbs?

Did you need to use the resister gadget for the turn signal bulbs?

I have read that some of the flashers didn't flash because the LEDs changed the resistance of the circuit.

Watching this like a hawk! Thanks for the info so far and keep us up to date. Did you select wide or narrow angle LED's? and does the factory flasher relay work with the lower LED currents?

Edited December 10, 201014 yr by cygnusx1

I've had a 240Z totaled from the rear and wanted a brighter light. I wanted to go with LED lights. The problem is in New Jersey the law only allows LED lights if they originally came on the vehicle. This might not stop me if you can't tell that they are a bunch of LEDs.

Could you take picture with them all light up for me I'd like to see how it looks?

I like they have bulbs that have the duel intensity and are designed for turn signals. Originally on the first Z I was going to make the LED upgrade and was researching the stuff then I took a job in NJ and found out I couldn't have them. Anyways at that time you needed special components to control the flashers and brake lights, so I planned to use the wire connectors and make it all plug into the factory wire connectors so I would not need to modify the factory wires.

One other problem that isn't a bad thing is the bulbs fadeout they don't really burnout. If you add more power as they fade out you can maintain the brightness. How it was explained to me is that the bulb wears out it will increase resistance, to counter that more power can be supplied to gap that resistance. I was also going to add to that wire a resister designed for LED bulbs, they add power as the resistance goes up. Now that they have bulbs with the flashers and duel brake light bulbs I might wait if I get them to see how long they last before adding these resistors, it might not be worth it anymore.

"(caps lock is stuck on my ancient work computer)"

looks like another dollar sign to add to my list......anyone asking about brightness or fadeing let me assurre you that i work equiping police and government vehicels and all the emergency lights are going to led for their brightness and long life spans...not to mention most of them only pull milliamps...in general led turn/stopp /marker lights will last years longer than the car they are in...unless you happin to get a bad batch

I went with the wide beam pattern. From a subjective standpoint, they seemed to be at least as bright as the incandescent bulbs. Andrew - Did you look at the Superbright LEDs website? They have a good description of their lighting patterns.

I'll try to remember to take a picture of the tail lights, and I'll put a couple of the incandescent bulbs in to see if I can demonstrate a difference. To me, it's difficult to capture a decent picture of automotive lighting, especially with a digital camera.

I'm not too worried about the LED fade. My car is garaged, and about the only time I drive it with the lights on is when I'm going to a club meeting. Even then, I frequently drive my daily driver to the meetings.

Unless the previous owner put in electronic flashers, the car has the thermal ones. I have electronic flashers in the package, waiting to go in. However, with only the front lights to go, the blinkers still work with the old flasher. I will update again after I replace the front bulbs.

FYI - Notice the current drop that I mentioned in my first post for the parking lights. The reason why thermal flashers have trouble with LEDs is because there isn't enough current to heat up the metal strip in the flasher in a timely manner. See How Stuff Works for a demo of a thermal flasher unit.

The power consumed by the resistor is proportional to the square of the current flowing through it. A turn signal operates 3 bulbs: front, back, and interior indicator. Using power ratings of 23W for the exterior and 3.4W interior, the incandescent bulbs generate 3.5A per side (at 14V). The LED current draw for the bulbs I'm using (per Superbright LEDs) is 60mA. Just replacing one exterior bulb doesn't increase the resistance in the lights to prevent the resistor in the flasher from heating up. However, replacing both bulbs means that the lowest resistance leg of the blinker circuit would be the indicator light. I won't be surprised if the thermal flasher stops working at that point. Maybe I'll get real geeky and do all of the calculations.

Why No Headlights?

FWIW,

Carl B.

I won't be surprised if the thermal flasher stops working at that point. Maybe I'll get real geeky and do all of the calculations.

On the flasher at least you didn't remove all the bulbs so you know it works with the front bulbs being the old stuff.

That's not as bad as some of the things I do at work (for geekyness) like measuring the flow rate of tree sap. The are the leaves cover in a tree just to name some of the dorky things I do at times not to mention the ever fashionable forest surveyors vest with the built in backpack section for extra marking paint and lunchLOL.

Forestry work sounds good to me, except, are there forests in NJ? . Maybe I will just switch out all the corner marker lights, plate, dome, and tails, to LED, but leave the rest alone. That should lighten some load and still leave the blinker circuits factory.

Edited December 10, 201014 yr by cygnusx1

Why No Headlights?

FWIW,

Carl B.

I have a set of relays for the headlights. They are from Blackdragon. However, I'm waiting on replacement sockets so I can use standard SPDT relays instead of the hard-to-find SPST relays the kit comes with. After I get the relays operational I MIGHT then consider headlight upgrades.

The big driver for the LED parking lights was the fact that when I changed out the combo switch on my car, I saw significant damage to the connector due to the parking light circuit wiring overheating. After spending the time to replace the harness side connector, I decided to reduce the current load on the circuit to prevent future melt-downs. Considering how many 240Zs have melted the fusebox for the same circuit, I'm definitely planning this for my 73. It's cheaper than an MSA replacement fusebox.