Gary in NJ Posted January 9, 2011 Share #109 Posted January 9, 2011 What I'm suggesting is NOT attempting to clean the cam and upper valve train. It can potentially do more harm then good. I would clean the upper valve train if you are willing to plug the return channels and go over the entire head with kerosene. After it is cleaned, everything will have to be hand lubed with assembly lube (I like Lucas Engine Treatment). It's a lot of effort that might not produce a lot of meaningful results. Adjust the valves. If you have any sludge up there, you have a whole other set of problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240Z Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share #110 Posted January 9, 2011 I see, well that will be when I get it home I can to that. My first thing to do is take out the carbs and give it a good cleaning. Lots of carbon deposit! Prob never been cleaned once! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmcforester Posted January 9, 2011 Share #111 Posted January 9, 2011 I was just think he might want to get rid of any sludge or areas of buildup that he can just wipe out with a clean lint free rag. I'd only go to that level of using kerosene if I was going to rebuild the engine or was replacing all the bearings, you run to high of a risk of damaging the bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buddyjackson Posted January 10, 2011 Share #112 Posted January 10, 2011 77 280z $900.00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240Z Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share #113 Posted January 10, 2011 Just picked up some carb cleaner tonight. Going to try and take the carbs off before the rain starts again on Tuesday. Tomorrow I'm going to see if she turns on and then take the carbs off. I'm going to soak them to losen a lot of the carbon in there then use the cleaner. I have to take oil out of it dont I? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmcforester Posted January 10, 2011 Share #114 Posted January 10, 2011 I would not worry about the little oil in the carbs, take them off as at the intake, be carefull not to mess with the linkage adjustments it makes it easier to re-tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonzi Lon Posted January 10, 2011 Share #115 Posted January 10, 2011 If you take it apart, the oil WILL come out. , but not much. I would suggest getting the DVD that ZTherapy has. Very good hands on instructions on carbs, carb adjustment, valve adjustment, console repair for choke mech. In my case it has paid for itself many times over. If you do wing it on your own, DO NOT mix parts. Bonzi Lon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary in NJ Posted January 10, 2011 Share #116 Posted January 10, 2011 I hate to be the sayer of nay...You don't need to remove the carbs to clean them. Once again you may do more harm then good.Do remove the dome tops and clean the piston and chamber. From there you will have good access to the venturi and so-so access to the throttle plate, so hose them down with carb cleaner. Fill the oil chamber with 30 wt oil or ATF. I would also clean the float bowl, but you'll need new gaskets for reassembly. Get a few gaskets from Z Therapy...and while your at it...order their Just SU DVD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240Z Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share #117 Posted January 10, 2011 Well I didn't get a chance to read any of this before I took them off. I have to say these things are way dirty. Almost like they've never been cleaned before, I went slow as make sure I keep my parts separate and tonnage sure a take a pic of what I did one by one. I think it needed to be done, all the hoses have to be replaced as well, cracked and busted, man o man is she going to sound good fromBe cleaned and the fluids drained and refilled. It is just to damn cold, freakin 37 this morning and i went outside when it finally got into the 40s. I can't wait for this to be in the garage with warmth! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary in NJ Posted January 10, 2011 Share #118 Posted January 10, 2011 all the hoses have to be replaced as well, cracked and busted Do know that the hose that goes from the bottom of the float body to the nozzle is a special piece. It may look like a piece of 1/8" but it is shaped (a has the right amount of flex) for that specific purpose. Once again, Z Therapy has 'em. Cold. Ha! It was 15 here this morning with a high of 26. I will be getting a foot of snow tomorrow and I haven't driven my Z since the first snow fall in November. You don't know cold Sounds like you may be getting close to getting this car sorted out and understood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240Z Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share #119 Posted January 11, 2011 Do know that the hose that goes from the bottom of the float body to the nozzle is a special piece. It may look like a piece of 1/8" but it is shaped (a has the right amount of flex) for that specific purpose. Once again, Z Therapy has 'em.Cold. Ha! It was 15 here this morning with a high of 26. I will be getting a foot of snow tomorrow and I haven't driven my Z since the first snow fall in November. You don't know cold Sounds like you may be getting close to getting this car sorted out and understood. That's good to know, I'll order those hoses when I order the DVD. I was going to order the DVD anyways. I hope I'm understanding this project . Sometimes I second guess myself and I don't know if I'm skilled enough for this but I always come back with me saying I'm able to do it like everybody else. 35 def is not as cold as your temp. But here in the bay we usually don't get to 35 which is weird for this winter, and working outside in that is not fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Beck Posted January 11, 2011 Share #120 Posted January 11, 2011 Do know that the hose that goes from the bottom of the float body to the nozzle is a special piece. It may look like a piece of 1/8" but it is shaped (a has the right amount of flex) for that specific purpose. Once again, Z Therapy has 'em. Yes - very import to use the correct part made of the correct material in that location.The hose your referring to is made out of a vinyl material rather than synthetic rubber - - the vinyl withstands the heat from the exhaust manifold better than synthetic rubber fuel line would, and its thin wall construction allows tight turns without kinking.FWIW,Carl B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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