Perfect240Z said:

Will do, I already am looking around for some replacement headers because of this exhaust leak. Took the car around the block and she was definetely stinking up the cabin. I'm going to have to cover the spaces in-between the wire harness and other wires going to the engine bay. Don't want to fall asleep at the wheel now haha......not even funny.

Yes, seal up that firewall. If you can't find the proper grommets, you can simply use RTV Black to create your own seal(s) for the electrical wires. You can't "roll your own" for things like the throttle linkage boot.

Also, headers don't really add performance to a stock L24, but they do rust fast and they are louder. The OEM manifold is a good design and scavenges well. If you can find a good deal on an OEM manifold don't hesitate to pick it up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68WFZCLX3QI&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Here she is after all the work I've done so far. She sounds pretty good to me, what do you guys think?

  Gary in NJ said:

Yes, seal up that firewall. If you can't find the proper grommets, you can simply use RTV Black to create your own seal(s) for the electrical wires. You can't "roll your own" for things like the throttle linkage boot.

Also, headers don't really add performance to a stock L24, but they do rust fast and they are louder. The OEM manifold is a good design and scavenges well. If you can find a good deal on an OEM manifold don't hesitate to pick it up.

So I have to find an oem exhaust manifold? Hmmm does it have to be for an l24 or can it be from other models I.e. 260, 280?

Bad news on the carbs. a forum member(spitz17) came out to help me sync my carb and we found out theres a leak in the linkage so they cannot be synced. haven't done much since I've been sick at home for 4 days now and theres tons of rain. just got in my redline mt-90 tranny fluid, im waiting for the sun to come out and then I can do the change.

Just got my bill of sale today! I'll be doing the registration asap on my day off. She runs really strong now, seems pretty quick for just driving in the parking lot. I have to address the speedo and the temp gauge before I take her out around the block. I'll be ordering my new ztherapy carbs soon once I pay some bills off.

Perfect240Z, contact me about the ZT carbs... I may be going a different route with my Fairlady. They may be coming off.

When you change oil - first use and inexpensive 30 weight or 20 and put Marvel Mystery oil in the mix.

Run it for a few days and then drain and replace with the oil brand and wieght you prefer.

I'm very old school but Marvels' seem to work well in the oil and occassionally in the gas.

Some have said it's mostly mineral oil but I know it works well stripping and cleaning out sludge and baked in varnish.

But this is just my opinion - but then - look how long this product has been around.

  erzelda said:

When you change oil - first use and inexpensive 30 weight or 20 and put Marvel Mystery oil in the mix.

Run it for a few days and then drain and replace with the oil brand and wieght you prefer.

I'm very old school but Marvels' seem to work well in the oil and occassionally in the gas.

Some have said it's mostly mineral oil but I know it works well stripping and cleaning out sludge and baked in varnish.

But this is just my opinion - but then - look how long this product has been around.

The marvel Mystery oil will clean but the oils today have great cleaners in them. I'd just chage the oil early like at 1,500-2,000 miles. If you do what he suggested get a second filter, a lot will collect in the filter.

I do like some oil additives on the market for my Z.

Every oil change I add ZDDP which is a chemical they removed from oil by the EPA pressures to make oil cleaner to recycle. ZDDP it to help protect flat tappet cams which the Z has. Now my 07 FJ Cruiser also has flat tappets, but don't require ZDDP so I don't know what Toyota did, or if modern oil just don't need it to protect flat tappets, but I'm not going to risk it with the Z to find out.

I use Lucas every-other oil change after I relash the valves I want to get something oily that sticks to the cam since you wipe a lot of oil off lashing the valves, an it seems to coat the parts well.

The last product I like and use on rare occasions is B&G MOA, this stiff cleans out an oil system really well. Every time I've used this on a old car it take about 2-3 minutes before the oil comes out the drain plug, that is how much gunk it can get. I like to use it about every 4-5 oil change (don't worry it isn't like sludge at that interval) Another neat thing about MOA is a chemical that makes the oil green when the oil starts to break down it turns red this is really nice for racing or cars with turbos to help keep an eye on the oil quality

Old racer trick is to use ATF in place of 1 quart of oil. ATF have very high detergent properties so work like other stuff but maybe less cost.

Old School Big block Chevy; 5 quart 50 weight racing 1 quart Dexron ATF.

Stayed super clean...

  erzelda said:

When you change oil - first use and inexpensive 30 weight or 20 and put Marvel Mystery oil in the mix.

Run it for a few days and then drain and replace with the oil brand and wieght you prefer.

I'm very old school but Marvels' seem to work well in the oil and occassionally in the gas.

Some have said it's mostly mineral oil but I know it works well stripping and cleaning out sludge and baked in varnish.

But this is just my opinion - but then - look how long this product has been around.

Thanks for the info guys. I did the oil change already, I plan on changing it at 1000-1500 miles. I went to the DMV and got my red temp tag. The DMV has to inspect it which is better then the chp, I asked why and got two answers, its an out of state vehicle, and someone wrote 76 for the year or just had sloppy hand writing so it was written wrong. Had to explain to the dmv that the car was a 70 when they asked me to smog it and told them it has all the original badging so it will prove its a 70 so they need to see it now. ALl good, I can take her on around the block now and see if she'll do ok driving it home and to the DMV. Damn tranny is still weird, just found a dogleg competition tranny on craigslist, waiting to see if the guy calls me back to see what the price, that would be interesting to drive since 1st is where reverse is and 2nd is where first is, and so forth....

Hey Guys, the name's Daryl. Been an American V8 guy all my life, but was looking for a project car for my 15 year old son and I to fix up and drive around on the weekends. Came across a 72 Z on Craigslist that claimed had been sitting and needed the carb adjusted. I show up it runs.....barely. But it was good enough for me. Paid the guy, towed it home and me and the son got to work.

After doing some homework, the block and the head both say N42 meaning it's a 280Z engine.Correct? However it has a points style ignition leading me to believe that at least the distributer was from a 240z. The intake manifold says E88 and has a bunch of smog'like looking attachments like hoses and valves that are all plugged with bolts, nails, and wooden dowels. I would like to install electronic ignition, and put an intake manifold without all the smog junk on it.

OK enough rambling. I should probably post this question elsewhere here, so maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

By the way this site is great.

Daryl

  Moto said:

Hey Guys, the name's Daryl. Been an American V8 guy all my life, but was looking for a project car for my 15 year old son and I to fix up and drive around on the weekends. Came across a 72 Z on Craigslist that claimed had been sitting and needed the carb adjusted. I show up it runs.....barely. But it was good enough for me. Paid the guy, towed it home and me and the son got to work.

After doing some homework, the block and the head both say N42 meaning it's a 280Z engine.Correct? However it has a points style ignition leading me to believe that at least the distributer was from a 240z. The intake manifold says E88 and has a bunch of smog'like looking attachments like hoses and valves that are all plugged with bolts, nails, and wooden dowels. I would like to install electronic ignition, and put an intake manifold without all the smog junk on it.

OK enough rambling. I should probably post this question elsewhere here, so maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

By the way this site is great.

Daryl

I'd start a new forum in our introduction site, and add pictures of what you get this will help