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First time Z owner


Perfect240Z

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I got her going! we went for a drive today, took my friend with me to work and we got to work to get the car started. She wouldn't start with the air box on so we have to open it to get her going, we messed with the idle because the car idled to low so now shes idling normal, the engine still wants to run, lots of carbon build up in the carbs, lots of oxidation on the idle so it needs to be completely cleaned off to work properly. The last owner put black carpet in but used some weird aluminum piece screwed into the floor to hold the carpet down, but the metal was bent to allow the gas to be used but was totally blocking the entire pedal from even going down all the way. Anyways theres's a video I'll be posting in a little bit. I drove to the corner and put 5 gallons of 91 premium which filled up the car and filled the tires. Transmission on the other hand is very bad.......1st gear was where 3rd should be, and the car didn't want to grab gears and im sure a good tranny fluid change might help a lot but only time will tell. Im going to do the fluids change, remove the radiator and get some watered down clr to get the damn minerals off and inside. lots of work, so much exahaust fumes!!!! had to take off the shift boot and basically drive with road under me to get into the right gears...... Still want to buy her.......LOL jk

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*Why do I see only the center section of the video image?

*Who is the voice behind the camera?

*Warn the car up before driving.. drive easy the first few times.

*Make sure you carry a couple spare in-line fuel filters.. with old gas you may clog a few up before all the varnish is washed out..

*Sounds like the rubber bushing at the bottom of the shift lever is either loose or shot. {if you still have the original type A tranny}.

* If the clutch fluid is low - you'll have a hard time shifting gears. Make sure that is FULL.. and the lines are clear of any air. Bleed the clutch system at the slave.

FWIW,

Carl B

Edited by Carl Beck
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The video was taken with my friends iphone, she didn't tilt it for wide screen :(

The car was warmed up for a while before I tried to drive it, The gas is clean but I think its color isnt right, I think it was clear but it was kid of yellow, the entire shift lever is actually loose but it will actually go into the actual first gear spot but no gear will engage which is weird. But time will give me it to figure out, one of the last owners swapped it with the 5 speed manual. Clutch might be bad and fluid is almost at the low level or is at it. I didn't go faster then 25 to the station. Had to take it easy with no gears LOL

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The 5spd. - if it is a newer Type B - will have three nylon bushings between the shift lever and the transmission. Two go in the sides of the shift lever where it mounts to the transmission - one goes on the bottom of the lever.

See diagram below.

You'll most likely have to remove the center consol to get down to them. {Z mechanics with experience and a lift - can change them from under the car}.

Item #31 Part Number: 32855-H1010 Bush-Control Lever - you need 2 each, but order extra's

Item #31 Part Number: 32861-N4200 Bush-Control Lever - you need 1 each, but order an extra

If the clutch fluid has been allowed to go to low - you can get air sucked into the lines. Top the fluid up and bleed the system.

I have seen 5spd.'s that lost gears ... but it's unusual. These are pretty strong units for the weight/torque involved. Your problem is most likely with the shifter and clutch engagement/disengagement.

Watching the video's you Posted and listening to the engine:

I believe you said that you put fresh spark plugs in - but after trying to start the car, and having it run on 3 or 4 cylinders very rich at start-up - - -it is quite possible that you have fouled a plug or two in the process. Since you weren't able to drive it enough at progressively higher RPM's - to clean the plugs - - - You may have to pull them out and clean them up - you can use a medium stiff wire brush if necessary. Don't think that just because they are new - that they are firing properly at this point.

The Z's are cold natured - they can be hard to start when cold. Catching and running on 3 or 4 cylinders at first is common - but within a few seconds all 6 plugs should be firing and you should be able to increase the RPM to around 1200 - 1500 without the engine dying.

FWIW,

Carl B.

post-3609-14150813338952_thumb.jpg

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I knew once you got it running you would try driving it, but you need to check some things out the valves sounded louse in your video. Do the brakes fell stiff. How well is it sliding into gear. Heather Carl's words otherwise they would have been mine! I know you would love to drive it around to show the world, but take your time with it. It is now over 40 years old, and you just got it from one of the worse things you can do to a car letting it sit.

One thing you need to do is check the wheel bearings for play this is a very big safety thing. lift the car wheel up and see if you can shift the wheel up or down with your hands if so you need to replace them, otherwise you can louse a wheel.

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I knew once you got it running you would try driving it, but you need to check some things out the valves sounded louse in your video. Do the brakes fell stiff. How well is it sliding into gear. Heather Carl's words otherwise they would have been mine! I know you would love to drive it around to show the world, but take your time with it. It is now over 40 years old, and you just got it from one of the worse things you can do to a car letting it sit.

One thing you need to do is check the wheel bearings for play this is a very big safety thing. lift the car wheel up and see if you can shift the wheel up or down with your hands if so you need to replace them, otherwise you can louse a wheel.

I do want to show the world that she's alive! :) only to the gas station that was only a block away. I don't think she's road worthy yet. I felt like I was on top gear if you guys have seen that show. Gear did not slide in good at all do I don't know if it was the clutch or tranny. I'm still going to do all my fluid changes. I'm positive that whoever had this car only did minimal things to keep her going. I want to take the valve cover off and get to cleaning the valves up. The motor doesn't sound that bad for not running for two years but at the same time she sounds tired of working for long without a good cleaning. To be honest the breaks felt really good. I have some paper work in a folder that showed break parts ordered so I think they're newer but I'll have to jack her up and take a look. My friend who was with me is almost down with his mechanical engineering degree and he was going to buy a 240z he helped alot yesterday.

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Wasn't that a fun drive all the same you finaly got it to roll on its own power. While you take a look at the breaks you might want to blead the lines not to get air out but to change the fluid. Brake fluid has anti rust agents and if they separate they can cause problems. Also make sure their is no swelling on the hoses or cracks that includes the clutch, might as well while your at it. Auto Zone has a loan a tool program where you pay the price of the tool and when you return it they refund the whole price, they have a bleeder vacuum system.

Now your shifting problem you mention when the car is not running can you push it into the gears like any manual car would? If yes then you need to bleed the clutch put new fluid in. Check for leaks first if you have a leak you can rebuild the master and the slave the kit are not that bad in price for this. If you still have problems have someone push the clutch while you watch the slave cylinder and see if it moves well (if the slave looks really bad order a new one they still make the original, but not the Master). If that don't work you might need to adjust the slave cylinder rod (hopefully we can get around replacing the clutch for now).

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I want to take the valve cover off and get to cleaning the valves up.

There's not a lot you can clean-up from there, but you can check and adjust the valve lash.

Cleaning the valves (or really the head) requires that the head come off the block, the head disassembled, and the guides, ports & seats be resurfaced.

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There's not a lot you can clean-up from there, but you can check and adjust the valve lash.

Cleaning the valves (or really the head) requires that the head come off the block, the head disassembled, and the guides, ports & seats be resurfaced.

so id have to take the motor out for that........ if thats true then it'll have to wait till i get the car home. That will require a garage.:stupid:

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so id have to take the motor out for that........ if thats true then it'll have to wait till i get the car home. That will require a garage.:stupid:

Gary is talking about the whole valve system I didn't think you wanted to replace guides and seats, you can to just a light clean up and adjustment of the valves with only taking the valve cover off. By the way the engine might not have been rebuilt you should add lead substitute other wise you can cause some engine damage. You don't need to do it every time you fill up but do it regularly.

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