I LOVE repairs like that!!

I'm curious about the ability to re-key Datsun door locks, especially 77-78 locks. At least the ones I have are assembled by crimping the chrome face plate over the tumbler when it slid in from the front. The only way to disassemble is to un-crimp the faceplate, and I don't know how you would do that without damaging it.

Has anyone actually had their door locks re-keyed?

Sam

I have. The locksmith I use did them without an damage.

"At least the ones I have are assembled by crimping the chrome face plate over the tumbler when it slid in from the front. The only way to disassemble is to un-crimp the faceplate, and I don't know how you would do that without damaging it." To quote part of Sam's reply , to which my reply is :

There's a ''Gator'' tool used by locksmiths to remove most facecaps without damage , but I always used replacement caps that have 4 tabs . You crimp these tabs over to hold the whole assembly together , then you reinstall the door lock back into the door . I'm sure you can ask to purchase these at a reputable lock shop that still does automotive work. Most auto work is now a specialty done with code readers and programmers , not old school anymore.

Edited December 22, 201014 yr by Unkle

My locksmith had new face-caps because they go bad sometimes, and the little door/spring breaks or falls out.

Edited December 22, 201014 yr by TomoHawk

Has anyone actually had their door locks re-keyed?

I took my one new lock to get keyed last summer as the locksmith said it would be no problem, but it turned out that it was a 240Z lock, not a 280Z lock (new oem 280Z locks are NLA from the dealer or car lock companies.) He wasn't even able to use the same pattern of notches in the 240Z key. So now I have three different keys for my car, but I can find them with my eyes closed, so I'm OK.

Mark, can you please describe what you did, and is it still working? If I can repair my 280Z locks, I'd be happy to reinstall them, and take the 240Z key off the keyring.

Because the lock cylinders are made from soft metal there is a little shoulder that moves the leaver up and down and after time will shear off (these cars were never built to last this long, they are getting old like us) so this little piece of wire projects down into the lock cylinder about 3/32" of an inch, when the lock cylinder rotates, it than makes contact with the wire and acuates the lever, and yes mine still operate just fine. It will make the locks feel very solid and direct when you lock or unlock your doors.

Hope this helps.

If anyone would like for me to repair your locks with this fix I have come up with, I will if you send your locks to me, I would charge around $30.00 per set which would include return shipping cost (I need to check into the shipping cost), if anyone is interested.

I see. Somehow you got the wire between the little spring and the solid part? Why not just use a little pin or rivet in stead of the wire?

Hello TomoHawk,

I used the wire because I figured anything else would probably snap off, the wire can resist the shear better because it can travel up the wire, just my thoughts.

My fix isn't so pretty, but works good. I was planning to drill and pin it, but discovered after drilling it that I located the hole 90 degrees offset. Doh! :stupid: So had to use the coat hanger wire. Hole size is 3/32". Just exactly the dia of my coat hanger. Not elegant, but it works! For now at any rate.

Please post up some more info on this modification. How far down in the lock does the coat hanger wire go? Is it sunk in to the notch that is above the spring? Any more details or pictures is greatly appreciated.