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Door locks for series 1


mally002

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Are the series 1 door locks the same as any 240Z or 280 up to 78?

I got a pair off Ebay for a 240 (or at least thats how they were represented) but it doesn't fit right in my passenger door, its as though it has an extra hump on one side............Are they different or could it be when the car was painted it's just thick in the door lock area, I hate to try and force it and crack the paint.

Thanks,

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Series 1 cars used different locks - indeed, even the key blanks are entirely different. Series 1's had a single-cut key for the ignition, and a totally different single-cut key for everything else. Post-Series 1 cars used a double-cut key for everything.

That said, it may be possible to retro-fit later 240Z locks into a Series 1 car, but I can't say for certain, as I sold all my Series 1 locks years ago and have none to compare.

Edited by Arne
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Series 1 cars used different locks - indeed, even the key blanks are entirely different. Series 1's had a single-cut key for the ignition, and a totally different single-cut key for everything else. Post-Series 1 cars used a double-cut key for everything.

That said, it may be possible to retro-fit later 240Z locks into a Series 1 car, but I can't say for certain, as I sold all my Series 1 locks years ago and have none to compare.

I'm almost positive that you could use the later style two sided 240z locks on a series one car. Obviously the internals are different, but externally there shouldn't be any differences. The locks for a 260Z or 280Z may have different linkage connections or other differences though.

Randy, can you post a picture of what your locks look like? I should be able to take a picture of some series one locks tomorrow for comparison.

-Mike

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I'm almost positive that you could use the later style two sided 240z locks on a series one car. Obviously the internals are different, but externally there shouldn't be any differences. The locks for a 260Z or 280Z may have different linkage connections or other differences though.
That was my first thought as well, Mike. But since I have nothing Series 1 left around here to compare to, I didn't want to make that declaration as absolute fact.

Merry Christmas, everyone!

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Hey guys,

Thanks for the responses, sorry so late in getting back.

Here's some pictures, it looks like the hole in the door takes a different cylinder, as the ones I got off EBay have 4 notches but the door looks like it accommodates only three, but I really can't tell. I guess I should just remove my other door panel and see what that lock looks like.

I may try the dremel approach as that should be safer than filing the door and paint.

What would you do?

Thanks,

Randy

post-13312-14150813203574_thumb.jpg

post-13312-14150813203774_thumb.jpg

post-13312-1415081320388_thumb.jpg

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Make sure that the end of the plug assembly matches the original .

The cam is actuated by the end ''lobe'' that matches it's original

cam shape , allowing for proper 3-9 o'clock movement and function.

If it's upside down it will not work. Dremel is fine as long as

where you're modifying isn't hollow cast . My Z car has GM door locks

that work great and can't be picked or messed with a key .

Really, any lock will work as long as it's the right length and accepts

the same cam movement to operate the linkage . :)

PS the one in the pic looks upside down from the original at the end !

Edited by Unkle
can't tell time
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