Just be careful when checking valve timing, the mark on the cam is not supposed to line up exactly, it's supposed to be off to the side a bit. The procedure is in the service manual. Valve timing is different than ignition timing, its a separate thing, not sure why the mechanic was trying to relate the two.

Below is a pic, notice that the notch is to the right of the oval indentation. According to the FSM, your valve timing is within spec as long as the notch is to the right, If the notch is to the left then you need to move your cam gear up to the 2nd or 3rd position. In my pic below, originally my notch was still a touch ot the right, but not half way like the manual shows so I advanced mine to the 2nd position

Edited December 28, 201014 yr by cozye

trust me the only reason i went to him is in the comercial he had a 260z on the lift and when i called he was a little informed on z's. but he doesnt know a dam thing about timing. he set my distributor way past 10 degrees and didnt even replace my water pump gasket or my valve cover gasket. hell i took my valve cover off with a socket on a hand driver they weren't even tight. once the car is running right im driving back down there and demanding my money back for there botched procedure

I'll also add that you have to be at #1 TDC perfectly, just to make that clear when doing this check and adjustment. Also, you will need the cam chain tool to keep the cam chain tensioner tight when removing the cam sprocket. You can make your own.

trust me the only reason i went to him is in the comercial he had a 260z on the lift and when i called he was a little informed on z's. but he doesnt know a dam thing about timing. he set my distributor way past 10 degrees and didnt even replace my water pump gasket or my valve cover gasket. hell i took my valve cover off with a socket on a hand driver they weren't even tight. once the car is running right im driving back down there and demanding my money back for there botched procedure

Do you have a lot of play in the cam chain now? I wonder if the bad mechanic took your cam sprocket loose and popped the tensioner out because he didn't use the tool ? If you take a wrench and turn the cam sprocket back and forth, the crank pully should move with it, with no noticeable lag.

well guys didnt do much today went and picked up a 27mm soket for the crankpully nut and we removed the fan and water pump. and the timing chain inspection plate. were going to drain the oil tomorow and get the crank pully off and check out the whole chain itself and the tensioner. all i know is for that mechanic to be voted #1 in out town he sure knows how to screw a classic car up.

all right guys we did it shes running like new now i can move on to the body work tomorow. turns out i had about about 40 psi at the rail the origional FPR was good and a new set of plugs and a timing did the trick.But the real kicker in this is i had to hot wire my brand new fuel pump. I have a battery sitting between the seats thats powering my fuel pump. I think im just going to wire it into the fuse box on a 12v line thats only on when the key is on. but other than that she screamed so fast. I think she is alot faster than when i first got her. thank you coyze for the pic of the cam sprocket and thanks for everyones support i really appreciate it. now im off to address some hatch rust lolololol. 280 wee out. peace.

Typically the fuel pump has two voltage sources. When you put the key in start, it kicks in a relay that closes the contact for the fuel pump to have voltage. When the key is in run, there is a relay uses an oil pressure switch to signal that the engine is running. I can't recall where the 280Z gets its signal from during the run. If you search on this site, I think you'll find a color wiring diagram that you can use to determine the proper way for the fuel pump to get powered.

By the way, where in Georgia are you?

Yeah, I would track down the wiring issue on the fuel pump. shouldn't be to hard. Then it will be done the right way. There is a fuel control relay and a fuel pump relay under the relay bracket by the fuseable links. we could help you through it, it shouldn't be difficult to figure out. My guess is that one of those relays might be bad and not making good contact.