Torquing bolts

[kjphilippona]

I know this will probably get me thrown off this web board but here it goes. Everyone when they replace anything always state they torque everything down to factory specs. I have found working on this car that it is not always possible to get a torque wrench on some bolts when you do not have the car up on a nice car lift in a garage. I know there has never be a time when i have not tightened something down to the point it will come loose, my question is could sightly over-tightening something cause a problem ?

[Dobber]

Aside from the obvious risk of snapping the fastener off and or striping the threads, no.

I know what you mean, it is not always possible to get at a fastener with a torque wrench. At that point we all just fall back on common sense and a " feel " for something approaching proper torque for that size of fastener. Proper torque is a measurable stretch that is imparted to the fastener by applying a force to it. That said, there is no way in hell I would ever attempt an engine rebuild or brake and suspension repairs without a proper torque wrench.

[FastWoman]

You can also bend/distort covers (e.g. oil pan, valve cover) if you overtighten them, causing them to leak.

You can torque roughly to specs with a normal ratchet on those occasional bolts that are lacking in access. Just think in terms of forces you know. If your ratchet handle is a foot long, and you have to torque to 30 ft lb, just pull on the handle roughly half as hard as the weight of a fully loaded (60 lb) suitcase. If the bolt/nut in question is the same as another that you're able to tighten with the torque wrench, just apply your ratchet to the already-torqued bolt/nut and twist until it just budges. That's how hard you have to twist on the less accessible bolt/nut to torque it to specs.

[Gary in NJ]

Proper torque ensures:

- That you wont snap/distort the fastener;

- The bolt/nut wont come loose;

- You'll be able to get the bolt/nut off without undue effort.

When I can't use a torque wrench, I have to rely on my experienced arm which has been known to snap bolts & over torque nuts. There have been plenty of times that I've walked a field looking for parts to my tractor or dirtbike.

I much prefer the wrench then my experienced arm.

Edited December 27, 2010 by Gary in NJ

[ezzzzzzz]

Grandpa always said tight is tight. Most fasteners on these cars can be run snug then given a little bit more pull. Obviously, if it's a head bolt, stub axle nut or other critical part you should use a torque wrench. Big arse bolts like on the inner rear LCA can be tightened with pure grunt and rechecked after a few miles. That said, get a torque wrench for each application (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2"). Always use a torque wrench that allows you to get the needed reading in the midrange (never at the extreme ends). Torque wrenches tend to be off at either end of the spectrum. You never mentioned what fasteners you were referring to.

[kjphilippona]

I replaced the ball joints, strut links, sway bar bushings, brake caliper bolts, differential bushings, differential mount. All except the sway bar bracket were at such an awkward location , i could not get a torque wrench on it. I do have a torque wrench and only tighten nuts and bolts with common sense

Edited December 27, 2010 by kjphilippona

[ajmcforester]

DO to the best of your abilities and tools. Yes over tight bolts can cause damage to the bolt threads and the adjoining part. All the bushing should be to torque you don't want them to tight. If you even want to be more accurate stretch the bolts instead