Creaking and Groaning in passenger rear quarter

[IdahoKidd]

I had that (or at least similar) in my 240 and took it apart thinking I needed to replace the bump stop and or the insulator. What I found was the nut that holds the strut in the tube was loose and the strut was moving around. Tightend the nut up and it all went away. (the manual calls the nut the 'gland packing'. ) It is worth a look. I took the nut on the strut (in the insulator) off while the car was on the ground. Then took the insulator bolts off. Lifted the car until the weight was off the strut assmebly and the strut cartridge would then move feely about. It wasn't supposed to. You could tell visually by looking at that gland nut as well as you could see the threads. It should be down tight and no threads showing.

Just my experience, but it was certainly my squeak and rattle.

[jmortensen]

You could tell visually by looking at that gland nut as well as you could see the threads. It should be down tight and no threads showing.

You should have a couple of threads showing on your gland nuts. If not, then that probably means that the strut insert is just slightly too short for the housing. I had this happen on both sides in the rear of my Z with Illuminas and tightened the nut against the housing, but the insert was free to move 1/16" or so. Made a hellacious rattle. Fixed by putting washers under the strut inserts and tightening so that one or two threads showed.

[IdahoKidd]

Jon, when I put the new struts on the front, they did come with the washers now that I recall.. I didn't use them as it seemed to tighten up. Once I tightened the gland nut on the rear, the noise went away. Seemed tight enough and the nut was completely down on both rear assemblies. No doubt they will vary some between mfgs. My "loose" one had about a turn before it was completely off. I guess the amount of threads showing matters less than if the nut is tight. I hope he (Zealous) lets us know if he solves the problem.

[Oiluj]

James,

Don't have room in my garage at the moment, but if the weather clears, Perhaps we could look at it together. I'm off work till the new year. Give me a call if it works for you.

Just a thought, have you asked Honza about this, I'm sure he's seen it before...

[Zealous]

Yeah Honza has been looking at it between when we were doing things. He thought it was the bearings and stub axle so we replaced those but noise is still there so just trying to track it down without wasting a lot of his time. Looks like I need to pull the shock. While I am at it I may as well replace them as the old kybs in there have been in there awhile longer than I have documentation for at least.

[5150 will]

Hey James,

If the nut holding the strut in the tube is loose, you should be able to jack up the car and reach in there with a large set of channel locks to snug it up. Just to see if that's your issue.....?

[Zealous]

Thanks Will, Hope everything is good with you.

Mazdaspeed was getting some cleaning attention today, think she was getting jealous.

[Zealous]

Just jacked it up and had a look, both the gland nut and nut at the top on the shock inside the car are good and tight. As Jon suggested there is a gap between the gland nut and strut (Honza also checked this in the shop and said it should be like that). I also looked at the spring perches and they all look good no obvious sign of wear and the spring moving around in it that would cause that name. Only thing I saw was that tip/end of the top coil is up against the side of the perch inward of the car that is perpendicular to the floor. (Really hope that made sense?). Not sure is that rubbing or moving around would make the noise. At this point I am considering pulling the shocks and replacing them with Tokico Illuminas and 280z springs. If I am going to pull it apart I may as well change the tired shocks, since I have tried all the other suggestions.

Any more ideas?

[Zealous]

On another note, I do not have bump stops anywhere on the car....

By that I mean I am missing these:

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4196

So that might be the noise but doubtful since it does not need a lot of suspension travel to cause the noise.

Edited December 31, 2010 by Zealous

[olzed]

Squirt WD40 around one area at a time to see if you can isolate the noise, At least it will help rustproof the underbody.

[mlc240z]

I hope I'm wrong because the implications are nasty, but could you have a body flex/rust issue in the rear somewhere?

Panels or parts moving, rubbing or separating when they should be solid?

The clicking sound and then groan might indicate it.

Don't know how easy it would be to see or localize without putting some type of stress on the chassis.

[IdahoKidd]

Hey Zealous, ever find the problem? Curious minds want to know. Ok, at least I do...