I have a Holley 4-barrel carb set up on my 74 260. I HATE it but untill I find all my parts for my SU carbs I have to deal with it. But I can't identify these carbs. I was told they are raceing carbs.. But I have no clue.

I have to jump my car in order to start it because the choke will not work. I traced my wires from the choke on the carb to the switch inside the Z and there all hooked and have power but won't turn on the choke. I know absolutley nothing about american made carbs.. And am not sure what I need to do or what kind of info ya'll are needing to try and help me..

If you know what all I need to put my SU carbs on and trash this Holley or if you know what's going on with my choke please help. Thanks in advance

The choke on the holley should close the flap , you pull it it closes, you push it opens it just that simple.

On your SUs this is what you need the intake manifolds the spacers between the SUs and the manifold, center link between the 2 SUs and the linkcage, Balance tube and choke cables, and air filters or one OM filter.

It's an electric choke on the Holley. So i'm guessing it has to be an electrical problem. And if that's all I need for the SUs then I'm good to go. Everything is hooked up and ready to be put on the car. Just not sure how to hook it up..

I need a photo of the set-up. Try to get a top shot and the side angles. Otherwise we're all just guessing.

On Holley electric chokes there is a spring inside a round usually black, maybe tan plastic cover on the passenger side. You loosen 3 screws and turn it till the choke butterfly closes. Not tight just mostly closed. Then when you start/run the car the electric heats the spring relaxing it. Just check to see if you have power to the wire that hooks to the choke cover when the key is on and if you do and it still does not work you may have to pull the cover to make sure the spring is attached to the choke lever. I hope this all makes sense.

Actually you will be able to tell if the spring is hooked up properly when you loosen it and turn it. Also you will have to prop the throttle open a little or give it a blip in between adjustment or the choke may not close because it will be caught on the high idle detent until you hit the throttle. In other words when the car is cold the choke will still be open until you hit the throttle the first time in the morning.

Edited January 15, 201114 yr by torker
I'm an idiot :)

There are more than likely enough photos of together systems at our web site to get you where you need to go. Good luck.

I'm not fond of Holleys either.

The model number should be stamped on the air horn. You can order a rebuild kit if you need one for about $50 (local auto parts store).

I'm not understanding why you need to jump-start because of a bad choke, unless you just keep cranking until the battery dies. Try stomping on the accelerator a few times before starting -- assuming your accelerator pump works. That should kick it over. Whether it keeps running is maybe another matter.

I will post pics as soon as I can snap them.. And as far as jump starting the car everytime I don't get either, but when I have someone starting my car while I am messing with the choke on the carb then she will start no problem. Or if it's hot outside she will start up perfect. But the slightest cold weather she don't want nothing to do with..

Also I have to keep her idleing around 1500 rpms untill she is half way warmed up or else she will die. Still dont get that either. I have her idle set at about 800 which should be just fine.

Jumping the car to start it is more like a dying or dead battery. A bad battery CAN read 12 volts with the car off. If the battery voltage drops dramatically when putting the key in the ON position or trying to start the car, that is a good indication of a bad battery.