I see that the OEM battery cables are NLA. Rock Auto has positive and negative cable listed for an AC/Delco part. Anyone try this or have an alternate suggestion? I don't need an "original" part, just cables that fit properly.

All auto parts places, Wal-Mart, and Tractor Supply Company carry replacement cables. Just check the lengths and ends of the existing cables and match them up.

my existing cables have been cut, new ends put on. they are a little tight for my liking. Battery hardware is gone and battery is strapped to the edge of the battery tray shelf. I'd planned on getting the hardware kit, correct length cables, and "fixing" the Po's work.. I suppose I could wait until I get the hardware and then measure for the length that I think I'll need.

To make really classy and super high quality cables, get some welder cable in black and red. Then get universal battery terminals and solder them on with a small plumbing torch. They are very flexible and soft, and flame resistant.

I'd agree with Dave and get some heavy duty 4 gauge cables.

Connect them to a good set of terminals used by car stereo industry. The brand I used is Raptor but there are several others.

The allen bolts last a lot longer than the nuts on the typical auto store terminals.

Dave Ruiz

Is the negative usually on the drivers side of the battery? I'm wondering if I've even got the right battery in the car.

The neg side came exposed and the pos side came under the wing. After my battery shifted (didn't have the correct hold down apparatus) and the pos post made contact with the inspection lid and burned a hole through it (took about a second and a half) I bought the same size battery with the posts on the opposite side (group 24F I think). It makes for disconnecting for service and for jump starting SO much easier, and with custom cables, if you didn't know the difference, you wouldn't know the difference. I bought bulk lenght 4 gauge wire and soldered the ends on. When all was said and done, I probably have $12 bucks(?) into each cable. I know that on my 6 volt stuff, the old Chrysler and the IH pickup, the heavy cables are a MUST.

I wonder if a dislodged battery would burn a hole in the hood with the posts flipped around. As far as I'm aware, the inspection lid protects the (+) post from accidental contact with tools and such. I'm almost positive that's how all the Z's came from the factory. I suppose there are good and bad points either way.

It would probably make a lot of sense to put some thick, self-adhesive plastic on the underside of the inspection lid (or hood, depending on battery orientation) to insulate in the event of accidental battery post contact. They make the stuff for electronic use, but I have no idea where you'd find it. I suppose an insulating cap over the (+) battery cable connector would help too.

I used one of the Jegs' battery terminal covers on my positive post:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Taylor/895/20670/10002/-1

or this:

http://www.amazon.com/Ancor-260392-Electrical-Terminal-Rotationg/dp/B000NI1FVC

Good point, if you are making your own cables and need a new battery, get a reversed polarity battery. Much safer IMHO. Both of my Z cars now have reversed polarity units. I am always nervous when tightening the positive post, on a regular battery, under the fender! The wrench comes so close to the body work that you should remove the ground post to tighten the hot post.

Edited January 31, 201114 yr by cygnusx1

I wonder if a dislodged battery would burn a hole in the hood with the posts flipped around. As far as I'm aware, the inspection lid protects the (+) post from accidental contact with tools and such. I'm almost positive that's how all the Z's came from the factory. I suppose there are good and bad points either way.

It would probably make a lot of sense to put some thick, self-adhesive plastic on the underside of the inspection lid (or hood, depending on battery orientation) to insulate in the event of accidental battery post contact. They make the stuff for electronic use, but I have no idea where you'd find it. I suppose an insulating cap over the (+) battery cable connector would help too.

Actually, it can come into contact with the hold down frame if not secured properly. That burns up the wiring fast. I found that out the hard way.

The insulation idea is prudent IMHO. I have some left-over toolbox liner that could work for me.

Good point, if you are making your own cables and need a new battery, get a reversed polarity battery. Much safer IMHO. Both of my Z cars now have reversed polarity units. I am always nervous when tightening the positive post, on a regular battery, under the fender! The wrench comes so close to the body work that you should remove the ground post to tighten the hot post.

Actually it's always good practice on ANY car to disconnect the (-) first and reconnect the (-) last. If you do that, then there's no risk of shorting the battery to the frame/body.

Edited January 31, 201114 yr by FastWoman