http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38680&highlight=battery+cables

To make really classy and super high quality cables, get some welder cable in black and red. Then get universal battery terminals and solder them on with a small plumbing torch. They are very flexible and soft, and flame resistant.

Soldering stranded cables on motorized equipment is bad news (although not so much on one as big as a battery cable) the heat softens the copper and the vibration can cause the wire to brake off. The finer the strands the higher the likelyhood of connection failure, this is why batt. cables are cast in the lead, and not soldered to it, as old time cables were. Some battery or auto parts shops have the big arse crimpers to do the connection properly. Likley it would never become an issue on a weekend worrior, unless you leave your cell service area on a road less traveled. Avoid soldering smaller wires, 8 ga or smaller on any car.

I guess you'd be right when you say it would likely never become an issue because I've soldered wires smaller than 8 ga on cars over the last 40+ years witiout any problem.

I had terrible problems over the years with solder joints , mostly on motorcycles and heavy equipment, . Really problematic where the wire can't be secured to a fixed location such as a body part or the frame. Also where the wire flexs between the body and motor. A really good crimp joint has it's issues with corosion as well, I guess it's whatever you prefer. I prefer mechanical connections myself.

I've never been in favor of crimp joints. I've always used the higher tin content solder for electrical connections and shrink wrapped them. Never had any problems.

I have to agree with Steve. I've soldered connections in cars for maybe 30+ years and more recently in boats for about 7 years, including a complete rewire of our powerboat. Obviously most of the connections would be smaller than 8 ga, but I've soldered up to 4 ga. I've never had a problem. OTOH, I've seen many a crimped connection fail, usually due to corrosion -- especially on boats, but also in old cars. Probably the most hostile connection I've soldered was the ABS sensor wire on my Saturn, which became ripped long ago. Rather than to buy the $$$$ part, I just soldered the wire back and heat-shrunk it. The connection wasn't a particularly good one, as it's always difficult to solder corroded wire. It's spent a decade (including in Ohio) exposed to salt, heat, and lots of flexing and vibration. No problems. I admit I wouldn't have as much opportunity as Steve for problems to surface, as I probably haven't worked on as many cars. However, I've had no problems at all.

If you have problems with solder joints failing, you might not be leaving enough slack in your wires to flex without bending. Although soldering might aggrivate the problem, I don't think it would cause it.

Edited January 31, 201114 yr by FastWoman

FWIW, there are "factory" soldered junctions in the wiring harness.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38680&highlight=battery+cables

I thought this looked good.

I was thinking if you need a new battery and your not looking for original cables, go to a front mount system so the connections would be on the front of the battery away from the body. Chevy used this on many cars so it would be easy to get the parts. What I like is the area for an arc is smallest I've seen, making potential safer.

I just wish I can find originals or terminals like the originals, since I have been going for the original looks

Soldering vs crimping is a debate as old as, well... soldering and crimping. Airplane wiring=no solder, for the reasons given above. But in a car, 99% of the wires don't ever see enough use or vibration to make a difference, nor are the results of electrical failure usually as dire.

Edited February 1, 201114 yr by cygnusx1

One word to the wise, check the thickness of the terminal on the starter end of the + cable before mounting it on the car. Some of the parts store cables are too thick and don't leave you enough threads on the starter stud to get the nut on straight. I destroyed a starter that way once.

On the last cable that I bought I ended up "adjusting" the thickness of the cable end with a large hammer.

(Then I had to adjust its width with a file to keep it from touching things that it shouldn't)

Soldering vs crimping is a debate as old as, well... soldering and crimping. Airplane wiring=no solder, for the reasons given above. But in a car, 99% of the wires don't ever see enough use or vibration to make a difference, nor are the results of electrical failure usually as dire.

And we are talking about cars here or at least we were, not airplanes or motorcycles.......

I've never been in favor of crimp joints. I've always used the higher tin content solder for electrical connections and shrink wrapped them. Never had any problems.

X2.Another 40 + year veteran of soldering &heat shrink.I'm a bout half way thru re-doing all the connections on my Bobcat and so far it starts better.