Do what ever yo want, it's your car. Whether it's an exact stock looking reproduction or a full on Custom job. Just make sure that you use no less than the Stock 6 gauge wire, and you can go as thick as 1/0 Gauge if you want. It's all about power transfer. If you want standard, then go with the 6 ga. if you want some hard core, no doubt about it transfer, go with the 2 or 1/0 gauge.

Power travels on the outside of a copper strand. Car audio shops and profesionals use HI Strand Count power cables. The more strands, the more efficiant the power transfer.

I personally like the 2 gauge Hi Strand power cable. Similar to Powderkeg's set-up. In my 70' 240Z, I have an 800 watt stereo, 55 watt lower driving/fog lights, 35 watt 6000K BiXenon HID's, Mallory Unilite Dist. MSD 6AL wit Promaster Coil, Dual fan set-up on the radiator, Honda wiper motor upgrade, Honda Blower motor upgrade and all the other lighting is LED.

So with all that in mind, I have a 4 gang fused Distribution block on the firewall, gold plated allen screw battery clamps, 2 ga power and ground wire, 8 gauge ground from battery to firewall and from the ground bolt on the tranny to the ground terminal on the engine harness. There's a lot more but the pics tell the rest......

Dave

Ignore the oil and dirt around the engine bay. Aparently, my fuel pump ended up witha bad seal on the lower hald and shot oil on everything on the right side of the bay...... Yes, I will clean it up, I promise.

Nice looking job, so what is your preference, solder or crimp?

Yeah, I imagine it's crimp -- and it's quite lovely.

Has anyone found a connector that looks like the original? If not what is the closest one we can find? I haven't found much that even looks close so your ideas will help.

Has anyone found a connector that looks like the original? If not what is the closest one we can find? I haven't found much that even looks close so your ideas will help.

Try McMaster-Carr, They have all kinds of strange and odd hardware. If they don't have it, its likley you will be searching for a while. They also have all kinds of bushings bearings shafts and the like, a fabricators dream site.

www.mcmaster.com

Try McMaster-Carr, They have all kinds of strange and odd hardware. If they don't have it, its likley you will be searching for a while. They also have all kinds of bushings bearings shafts and the like, a fabricators dream site.

www.mcmaster.com

Ya I've looked at what they had. I've thought of finding good connectors with bad wires drill out the old wirer.

Has anyone found a connector that looks like the original? If not what is the closest one we can find? I haven't found much that even looks close so your ideas will help.

I have made up a bunch of the Z battery cables using welding cable and crimped ends with a clear shrink tubing so I could tell the condition of the crimp connections. I use a coating on the crimped end called Ox- Gard that is a anti-oxidant compound (not dielectric compound/grease)

The best place to buy the ends that are as close to correct as one can find is Genuinedealz.com or their Ebay user name: Genuinedealz. These guys have free shipping and the quality is great.

Dave.

Nice looking job, so what is your preference, solder or crimp?

BOTH... The distribution block doesn't really allow for soldering but the allen screw clamps the hell out of it.

Anything that has a crimpable ring terminal gets crimped AND soldered. Then covered in a Silicone sleeve or Heavy Duty heat shrink.. Sometimes 2 layers.

I haven't had electrical issues for years. It's so overdone that you swear you can hear the car begging for me to add something else to it, just to see what it can handle. haha

Dave

New cables and GOOD GROUNDing connections to the block and the firewall. Clean the oxidation off the firewall seal with good dielectric grease. I got 12 from 6 volts at my starter and what feels like 30 horses back. It's a new car! The previous owner asked me why his ex-Z was running so good. I let him know i replaced the ignition switch, then the coil, then the starter wires, and finally found the battery wires and grounding to be the big time fix.

New cables and GOOD GROUNDing connections to the block and the firewall. Clean the oxidation off the firewall seal with good dielectric grease. I got 12 from 6 volts at my starter and what feels like 30 horses back. It's a new car! The previous owner asked me why his ex-Z was running so good. I let him know i replaced the ignition switch, then the coil, then the starter wires, and finally found the battery wires and grounding to be the big time fix.

The power source must be good all the way. On my first car I worked really hard to improve ignition on the car, I started with 90% ignition and went to 98% (was a 84 200sx Nissan did a lot to improve ignition by this time). Most people don't think about how current will weaken over time, that is why I wish I can get original style battery terminals to make new ones. Great job

Since I'm not going for "show-car" stock, I went with a side terminal battery & wires. No concerns with the teminals contacting anything that way.