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'73 manifold


madsoul

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I broke one of the studs off mine awhile back. Just drilled the hole and re-tapped it for a bolt. It now has 2 studs and one bolt that hold the exhaust on.

Of course, this year I switched it all to a header. It's a lot lighter. Trust me....I have the scar from 5 stitches on my head that says exactly how heavy that stock manifold is....:tapemouth :cry: :tapemouth

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The studs are actually threaded in, but over time and with lots of heat they essentially rust/weld themselves in place. The only thing to do (if you want to keep the stock manifold) is to drill out another hole and tap it. Then you can either put another stud in it or just use a bolt.

I got my header from a junk yard for $50. It's a 6 into 2 header like the ones from Motorsport Auto. I had to have a collector made up for though.

Here is a good shot of my header before I put the engine back in the car. This was almost one year ago to the day!

post-1264-14150792301548_thumb.jpg

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You can get a new header from places like Victoria British or MSA. But you'll be looking at about $150+. You might be able to find a stock manifold in a junk yard considerably cheaper, but you'll run the risk of being in the same situation that you're in now.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Dont buy a header use pb blaster and soak it good before easy out. or even better use KROIL by Kano you can buy it on the internet site only. this will remove anything rusted in . the 73 stock manifold flows better than any early manifold and besides headers are noisy and the hp increase is minimal unless you are racing.

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Flying Dutchman is correct.The factory knows the best all round setup.Headers are for the high rpm times.When I used to race motorcycles we called that rpm range "on the pipe"funny how meanings change huh?Did you want a manifold with or without the small emission tubes?I have one without that I am willing to part with.

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