Fan & Timing Belt both snapped, Coolant Host burst

[FastWoman]

Cool! Glad you could find them in stock.

[Bruce Palmer]

Thanks eveyone for your advice so far I purchased new belts and hoses today and have been working on the belts and will be doing the hoses next. Will update when things come together.

Next comes Brake and Clutch Hydraulics. Worst case get 'em all flushed well with new clean fluid.

[colbydc5]

Welcome to the forums.

First off, your engine doesn't have a timing belt, it has a timing chain. I assume you are referring to the FAN BELT that is attached at the engine crank pulley and drives the water pump and alternator. You may have a second belt that runs the air pump and if installed, the AC compressor.

It's possible that your water pump may have seized. It is a very simple bolt-on repair. You can confirm this by rotating the pump flange by hand. It should rotate freely. The part should be available at your local parts store. Same for the fan belt.

"The coolant hose running from the radiator back through the firewall"

The heater hoses that run through the firewall are attached to the engine, not the radiator. I believe these are generic 5/8" heater hose, no special part numbers. Just cut-off a small piece and bring it to the autoparts store.

Hi Gary, I did purchase a new water pump, but have not yet installed it. I can't see the flange for the water pump... doesn't it lie behind the fan and fan clutch? Anyway if it had seized would the car start up as normal? After I replaced the belts and hoses in question, I started the car to make sure it was running ok. Anyway I just want to make sure that the water pump is in fact where I believe it to be...

[colbydc5]

Hi so I got the car back running again now, though I have not driven it - just idled it so far. After wrenching on the car all day I replaced every belt, and some of the hoses. I still have more hoses to replace but I just wanted to see if the car would run ok after those fixes.

It is idling ok, though somewhat louder. Part of the loudness is the squeaking of what I believe are the belts seating themselves as they spin around the pulleys getting snugger. This is normal right? It is my first time changing belts myself. To be honest, I'm a big n00b when it comes to much more than basic fluid / filter type maintenance. I'm also very new to the Z, having not owned it long.

Anyway I apologize for this sort of introduction, in the help me section. I was pretty desperate after last night. I appreciate the help very much.

FastWoman, I'm glad you checked out my blog. I'm too busy to update it regularly but I try. I'm not related to SmokingWheels, I don't know anyone on this forum yet.

[jaltman]

No, your belts should not squeal. That indicates they are too loose. You must do more than hand tighten them, a pry bar is required. There should be about an inch and half of belt slack in the center of the open space between spinning things when the engine is off. Squealing is slipping. Too loose wont keep the battery charged on the alternator.

[Gary in NJ]

Part of the loudness is the squeaking of what I believe are the belts seating themselves as they spin around the pulleys getting snugger. This is normal right?

No. This is a very good indication of a failed water pump. The water pump is behind the fan/clutch/pulley. If you remove the fan and pulley the next step is to remove the pump. It should be replaced if the vanes are corroded and/or the bearings are making noise or if you feel the bearings drag.

[Racer_Z_]

Lots of good advice. Sounds like your doing the right things. I can't add anything without repeating what has already been said.

To remove the water pump, you must first remove the fan and fan clutch, then the water pump pulley. Before you remove the pulley, check to see if it spins freely and check for bearing wear. Even if it seems good, it might be prudent to change it anyway.

The belts are squealing because they are not tight enough or because the water pump failed. I suspect a failed water pump because you said BOTH belts broke. Seldom does more than one belt fail unless there are other issues besides old belts.

The heater hose burst because the system overheated. The system overheated because the pump failed.

After you get this sorted out and fixed, and you know your done, replace the plain water with anti-freeze. You need the anti-freeze because it works as a water pump lubricant as well as a rust inhibitor. It is more than just anti-freeze.

Check the engine oil too. Over heating can burn/consume oil.

After you get it back together, run it without the radiator cap. Wait for the thermostat to open. The water level will drop as air purges itself out of the system. After you top it off, cap it. After this you need to check the reservoir each morning for a few days and add accordingly.

Edited February 6, 2011 by Racer_Z_
forgot to include something

[ktm]

I Looped the rear hoses for over a month straight, at over 90 degrees outside and hi RPM driving was involved on many days of that month. Never a problem. They were looped because the heater core failed on the freeway.

I'm not trying to be Arguementive by any means, but Every day driving and Dyno testing are almost 2 different things for most people. Dyno testing is the essencial idea of Racing in one spot. So for daily driving, looping it is fine.

Tony's point was to show that looping the heater hose does result in a significant temperature differential between the back of the head and the thermostat. That's it. Too many people read words that are never spoken.

For a carburreted, normally-aspirated car that is fine. For those of us running EFI and forced induction it is another matter.

[AZ-240z]

I would offer a word of caution if you ever attempt to change the water pump yourself.

Sounds like you may not have done too much wrenching and it can be costly.

One or two of the bolts securing the waterpump are fairly fragil (long and slim). It is very easy, with a little corrosion, to snap one of these bolts off in the head.

I would highly recommend having your mechanic doing this which may save a lot of money and aggravation for what it's worth.

Dan

[colbydc5]

Thanks for the continual advice everyone. I did end up dropping the car off with my mechanic for the water pump, and they're going to check the belt tension as well. I'm going to flush all fluids and refill. Hopefully all will be well soon... I hope.

[Bruce Palmer]

Let us know if the water pump was, in fact, frozen up....

[colbydc5]

I'll definitely get back to you on that.