Aftermarket fuel rails

[FastWoman]

Aeromotive seems to be the dressy and high quality way to go. Others on the forum may have experience with their regulators, but I don't. (Mine is stock.)

[Zed Head]

Uuuummmm....shiny....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13109/

This one has an extra port for a gauge..http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13101/

Many more options...

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Air-Fuel-Delivery/Section/Fuel-Pumps-Regulators/Part-Type/Fuel-Pressure-Regulators/?keyword=regulators

[ProblemZ]

Zed Head I thank you ( and all the others) for all the fast and speedy responses. As today I am researching and purchasing all the necessary, ie longer fuel supply lines, c-clamps, and fitting for my build (new fuel rail already) on way to help me complete my new engine bay . And seeing as how every body is being great withthe link any body know any good sites for where I can buy various size fuel pressure rated L and T or other cool types of tube connectors and what size and pressure rated fuel supply lines I should buy ( hopefully in foot increments as I'm sure I'll be doing quite a bit of custemlength fitting ?

As always thanks again

[ProblemZ]

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Edited February 10, 2011 by ProblemZ
accidentally posted msg twice

[FastWoman]

Your local auto parts store can supply you with the fuel hose you need. Get the fuel injection grade. It should cost about $4/ft. You'll need mostly 5/16" line in the engine compartment, but there may be some 1/4". (These are close enough to the metric sizes.) If/when you replace hoses in the fuel tank/pump area, you'll also need some 3/8" and 5/8" fuel-rated (but non-fuel-injection). The 3/8" is commonly available, but you might need to go to a tractor supply for the 5/8" stuff.

[ProblemZ]

Ok.. Just bought the after market rail, new steel fuel tubing, tubing bender, and 10 ft. of high performance E.F.I rubber tubing. I might end up buying some nice L and T brackets or i might just fab my own . I made up up a sketch as to what my engine bay will look without the stock rail(also include photos of stock rail and part).

The only complicated part is fabricating a steel tube to connect to the dual inlets on the pressure regulator ( I figured making a new T line myself is alot cheaper and easier then getting aftermarket fuel regulators) and doing a good job will be easy cause ill get my lil bro to weld it all together for me(still on the drawing board for how i will set this up exactly but Ive got it down fundamentally.

The other "hard part is bending the new steel fuel return line, and attaching it using the bolts that holds the brake line cushions across the firewall. Where the fuel return line enters the engine bay by trans tunnel I will re-bend that with a 90degree (to sky) leave about an inch or two and cut. next i will fab new tube following stock brake tube pattern connect it to firewall with insulated clamps using same screws that holds steel brake tube cushions again with insulated clamps and put another 90degree (which way not sure) on it depending upon the final fabrication of my custom regulator tubing .

So by following the stock brake lines' pattern across the firewall with the updated fuel steel return line, keeping the stock regulator, and cleaning up the fuel rail I think this will be an awesome way to give your L-Series (Fuel Injected) engine a nice personal touch with a really clean look that leaves car unmolested. The only thin that would have to be OE or similar would be to get a new steel return brake line as Im going to re-bend and cut that a few inches past firewall. well anyway the pics should post below and I will post pics on here after everything arrives and is installed

P.S now that I think about it should I go ahead and install a fuel pressure gauge after the filter and the outlet line. If so dry type gauge is right kind to get i.e. wont fluctuate with engine temp right??

Edited February 10, 2011 by ProblemZ
ps