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Toasted Clutch?


hogie

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Diseazd compared to your pic it looks like I have the 280z+zx 2+2. I was going off of this diagram http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html

My master cylinder is the only thing not replaced so far. It has been bled properly and hasn't given me any problems shifting. The only odd part is it looks like the thread adjustment has been expoxied over. According to my measurements the free play is still fine.

The slave is a non-adjustable new this summer. If it was bad wouldn't it exhibit shifting issues not slippage? IE the non fully extended cylinder wouldnt disengage the clutch.

Here are the pics, the dirty little booger is hard to get in focus. Also, do you think the clutch is as good as wasted with the high heat the center has seen?

Thanks again

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Hogie.......You want to make sure that what you put back is correct.In your pictures at your first post, look at the next to last pic of the pressure plate.A 240Z clutch when sitting like that pic is 2 inches from the floor to the tip of the clutch fingers.If you measure your clutch and that measurement is 2 inches,you have a 240Z clutch.Now you need to make sure you have a 240Z collar........$18.00 from MSA. I believe all TO bearings will work, but check. From your pics, I'd say you need one. Next,buy yourself a new slave cylinder.......Now you know you're good to go! If the measurement is not 2 inches, you need to figure out what clutch you've got and match the collar to it. Good luck.......Guy

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The fingers are right at 2 inches to the floor. I will definately buy a new collar and throw out bearing if you think that is the main problem. I am not sure why you say a new slave cylinder? It is new already. Did you mean master?

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It looks like you have a 240Z clutch with a 2+2 collar. You're right you don't need a new slave cylinder.....you need a 240Z collar and a new 240Z throw-out bearing. Good Luck Hogie.....I think you've found the problem. Never know with previous owners! Guy

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If your clutch was slipping - you'll need to replace the clutch disc -how thick the material is - doen't matter. If it has been slipping - it is more than likely overheated and glazed. You will also have to have the flywheel resurfaced to remove any hot spots - so the clutch will enguage smoothly.

I'd order the Zoom Clutch Kit from NAPA or RockAuto - it comes with the pressure plate, clutch disc, pilot bearing, throw out bearing and collar. {as well as a clutch alignment tool}.

NAPA $134.00

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=NNCMU475361_0062695300&An=599001+101971+50018+2018010

BRUTE POWER / PERFECTION CLUTCH {aka ZOOM} $120.79

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=334602

ZOOM Part Number: MU 475361

These are actually better than OEM qualtiy. You really don't want to keep pulling the tranny in a trail and error fashion.

FWIW,

Carl B.

Edited by Carl Beck
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Thanks for the recomendation, I was actually looking into both of those clutches. The tranny is pretty easy to pull, but I don't want to keep doing it.

I am going to spend too much time under the car as is. I need to pull and repair my gas tank as well. It leaks a couple drops when it is really cold out.

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It doesn't turn very smooth at all. When my old S10's T/O bearing went out, it sounded like I had gravel turning inside my tranny. I wish it would've been as obvious as that one.

I just ordered the Zoom clutch from Napa, they actually charged me shipping on it. Rock Auto would've been about 5 bucks cheaper, but I would rather deal with a store.

Thanks again

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I have some bad news about the Zoom clutch. There supplier for the clutch collars dried up and they no longer include them with the kit! So I still need to get with MSA to finish the job after all.

Do they include the bearing? I thought that a new bearing could be pressed in to the old collar. The wear on the collar "tabs" is usually pretty minimal isn't it?

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The bearing is there, but I had the wrong collar in the first place so it wouldn't solve my problem.

On a side note, I think I had my gas tank straps too tight as the crack was right where the left hand hose connection was at. No rust at all, it just look like it was stressed at the weld.

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