T/S and Brake Light

[greenmachine]

The right front turn signal light lights when the brakes are applied. Turn signal flashes but when brakes are applied flashing stops in front and light operates as a brake light. Any suggestions as to where to start looking?

[Arne]

You don't say what year car you are working with, but US 240Zs route the brake light circuit through the turn signal switch. From what you describe, I think you've got worn, dirty or broken contacts in the turn signal switch.

[SteveJ]

The easiest thing to check is the right rear turn signal. Pull the bulbs out of the sockets, and compare the bottom of the bulb to where it makes contact in the socket. The turn signal/brake bulb should be a dual filament bulb. I think you may have a signal filament bulb in that socket. If so, replace it with an 1157 bulb.

[Zs-ondabrain]

It's a 95% chance that the Turn signal switch is to blame. The front and rear bulbs are not connected in the rear socket. If it were, thebrakes would come on with the parking lights and the turn signals would probably flash everything.

Check the switch with an ohms meter. Look at Post # 52 for a diagram that shows what is what. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30640&page=6

The other 5% could be the Hazard switch, as the wires go thru there too.

Dave

Edited February 10, 2011 by Zs-ondabrain

[EScanlon]

Sorry Dave, but it's probably a 100% chance of not reading the OP.

It's a 95% chance that the Turn signal switch is to blame. The front and rear bulbs are not connected in the rear socket. If it were, thebrakes would come on with the parking lights and the turn signals would probably flash everything.

OP:

The right front turn signal light lights when the brakes are applied. Turn signal flashes but when brakes are applied flashing stops in front and light operates as a brake light. Any suggestions as to where to start looking?

Which still yields Steve's answer as the most likely scenario:

The easiest thing to check is the right rear turn signal. Pull the bulbs out of the sockets, and compare the bottom of the bulb to where it makes contact in the socket. The turn signal/brake bulb should be a dual filament bulb. I think you may have a signal filament bulb in that socket. If so, replace it with an 1157 bulb.

[esmit208]

Well I learned something. THANX GUYS!

[greenmachine]

The right front turn signal light lights when the brakes are applied. Turn signal flashes but when brakes are applied flashing stops in front and light operates as a brake light. Any suggestions as to where to start looking?

One of the previous owners did some "fixing". Apparently wasn't getting voltage from the brake switch so PO spliced into the right front turn signal for power for the brake lights.

I have voltage from the the 4 way to the brake switch. Voltage at output terminal on the brake light switch when the circuit is closed, no voltage when open, as it should be.

Continuity from the connector to the output on the brake switch to the green/yellow termnal on the TS switch, but no voltage to the TS switch when the wire is connected to the output post on the brake light and cirtuit is closed (when brake pedal is depredded).

I am no electrician, but the above does not seem possible. Why voltage at the output terminal on the brake switch when the wire to the TS switch is not connected, continuity thru the wire to the green/yellow terminal on the TS switch, but no voltage when the wire is connected to the brake switch and pedal is depressed?

Vehicle is an early 1971, build date 1/71.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

[esmit208]

GRUENEMACHNINA

First I would correct the splice that the PO made and then you will have to narrow down the initial problem. These old harnesses do not like to be cut into. I BBQ'ed the main harness in the car to the left doing that exact same thing while installing driving lights. That woulld be my approach.

[Zs-ondabrain]

So here's my guess again............

Stevej says Bulb and socket, I say it's the T/S switch.

So it turns out that, and I'll almost bet on it, that the switch went bad, the Previous Owner couldn't figure it out, and rewired it.

So the T/S is likely, Again, 95% chance to blame and the PO rewired because of it. SO I'm sticking with my original Diagnosis.

Dave

[SteveJ]

Hey, the OP asked where to start looking. I just listed the easiest place to start. I like to eliminate the easy ones like that and then really start taking things apart later.

[Zs-ondabrain]

Oh I know Steve, I was just merely stating that you had mentioned one part of the problem, and that my guess was the other half of the problem. Like all things, "One thing led to another". The PO didn't know where to start, so he just Jerry-rigged it instead of hunting down the real issue.

My issue, if any, was with Enrique stating that I didn't even read the Original post. I read it, and my conclusion was the T/S switch. And unlike most, I Actually research the Owner to find out what car they have, as it's usually in their Public info. So I already knew it was a 71' 240Z before I made my first post. Guess I'm funny that way.

Dave

Edited February 14, 2011 by Zs-ondabrain

[greenmachine]

Finally got it straightened out. Turns out the 4 way flasher was flaky resulting in intermitent power through the brake switch. Cleaning and adjusting the contacts fixed that. Then disassembled the turn signal switch and cleaned and adjusted. Put it all back together and guess what-no turn signals but everything else worked.

End result is that when I reassembled the turn signal switch I did not get the little ball bearing seated under the spring so proper contact was not being made when the signal lever was used.

Now another problem I just installed a Sony stereo. No additional amps, subwoofer, or anuthing. The unit works fine when the vehicla is not moving, but when accerating the radio shuts off. Comes back on when engine is under no load. Could these be a bad voltage regulator?

Vehicle also has a Jacobs electronic ignition. Ammeter reads between 20 - 30 amps and stays steady under acceleration. Regulator looks very old, but alternater looks almost new.