I am new to this forum and to the Z community, and in need of some help. I am currently rewiring my Z from a complete "Hack" job the previous owner did.

1. The original engine compartment wiring harness has been replaced with one from an automatic transmission model (mine is a 5 speed manual). Will this make any difference? I did find a few modifications that i had to make, ie...bypass starter relay, reroute inhibitor switch wire to back-up lamp switch, etc...

2. Is the Voltage Gauge supposed to be "Always On" even when the car is off and key removed from ignition switch? If so, wont that drain the battery? And, Is there a modification that will only allow it to be on when the key is turned to the on position (not acc).

3. When changing to an '82 model alternator, will the brake warning relay modification (yellow wire to Green-Blue stripe) have any effect on the fuel pump itself?

4. The 4 fusable links in the engine compartment have been replaced with custom "home made" ones. What is the correct gauge wire for these? And is there a specific type of wire that needs to be used?

Thanks in advance for any/all the help!

Also, A major THANKS! to the member who took the time to create a color wiring diagram for our Z's. It made my rewiring job so much easier and faster.

In theory a voltage gauge has infinite resistance. In practice, it's almost infiinite. One of the few things I remember from my classes on electronics. The current draw is tiny. So, yes, the gauge is always on and won't drain the battery.

I was recently comparing ECU numbers and found that the 76, 77 and 78 Manual transmission cars all used the same ECU, #A11-600-000. But 77 and 78 Autos used A11-601-000. So there might be a wire or two to the ECU that your ECU won't handle correctly. Just something to be aware of if you run in to a problem, I do not know what the ECU differences might be. I got the information off of various other sites.

The fusible links have a high temperature flexible insulation so that they don't melt externally when they go. A lot of people replace them and the mounting base with Maxi-fuses.

Edited February 13, 201114 yr by Zed Head
Misspelled a word

In theory a voltage gauge has infinite resistance. In practice, it's almost infiinite. One of the few things I remember from my classes on electronics. The current draw is tiny. So, yes, the gauge is always on and won't drain the battery.

This is correct, the voltage ga. is measuring the circut potential, or voltage of the charging system over a huge resistance. With such high resistance there is almost no current flow, which is what drains the battery. If I remember correctly, the clock is also on the same Pos. as the Voltage ga. and is not on the key. But my car is a 73 and perhaps not the same so I'll shut up now.

IIRC, only the 76-78 280Zs had a voltmeter so the voltmeter in you 73 has to be aftermarket. The 280Z the voltmeter, thought it's unswitched like the clock, is on a different circuit, fifth fuse down, right side, while the clock is on the third fuse down, right side. But yes, the voltmeter would be 'always on'.

So, what everyone is saying is that the voltage gauge should always be showing a 12+V reading even thought the car is off and key is out of ignition?

That is correct

Just to be sure i attached a picture of the gauge with the car off and key out.

Yep. That's what saw prior to turning the key whenver I jumped into my 78 for the 12 years I owned it.

Thanks for the quick responses, Is there a way to modify to only come on when the key is turned to the on postion?

IIRC, only the 76-78 280Zs had a voltmeter so the voltmeter in you 73 has to be aftermarket. The 280Z the voltmeter, thought it's unswitched like the clock, is on a different circuit, fifth fuse down, right side, while the clock is on the third fuse down, right side. But yes, the voltmeter would be 'always on'.

I stand corrected, I've got an amp meter.

Thanks for the quick responses, Is there a way to modify to only come on when the key is turned to the on postion?

Anything is possible. All you'd have to do is find the wire that is the 12 volt source for the voltmeter and move it to the a switched 12 volt source. But why would you want to do that?

I'm just not keen on the idea of too many things drawing from the battery when it is off. Odds are, if you say its suppose to be that way, I will not change it but would like to know there is still another alternative.

Thanks again sblake01 for all your help. Btw, would you happen to know about the fusable link problem i posted about?

4. The 4 fusable links in the engine compartment have been replaced with custom "home made" ones. What is the correct gauge wire for these? And is there a specific type of wire that needs to be used?