zanthus said:

Then how do I deal with my factory ignition control module because those directions are for converting a 240 over to HEI module? Would I go about it the same way?

Register at ZDriver.com at look at this thread.

I'm not sure where Skittle connected the G wire on the HEI to. It may be the positive terminal off of the distributor (reluctor). I sent him a PM over at Zdriver. The other thing I wonder about is whether or not the W terminal should be connected to a condensor. (See attached document for notes I found on the HEI.)

Since I haven't ever played with the HEI, I do not claim any expertise or specific knowledge in its applications, wiring or behavior. (How's that for a disclaimer?)

HEI Notes.doc

Edited February 20, 201114 yr by SteveJ
Forgot the link to the HEI thread for a 280Z

I found this web page helpful even though it's aimed at 510s. The wiring to the module is correct and described in component terms instead of colored wires. One thing it leaves out that is very important is to make sure that there is a good connection from the mounting holes to ground. I ran a dedicated ground wire from the hole with the grounding ring.

http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html

You won't have to do any of the breaker plate instructions, you don't even need to get in to the distributor.

I have seen people mount these in the engine compartment or next to the module in the cabin. The advantage of the engine compartment is that you can just run two extra wires from the coil to the module, and just disconnect the distributor wires from their junction box and connect them to the module. Disconnect the plug from the original 1978 module in the cabin and it's ready to go. Use your judgment on insulating the hanging plug, some wires will be hot but they won't do anything.

If you mount in the cabin, you'll need to do a little more work to figure out what wire comes from where.

I picked up a small project box at an electronics supply store and a junction strip for the wires and put everything inside, then mounted it in the engine bay where a harness holder had been.

Edited February 20, 201114 yr by Zed Head

Thanks for the help. While searching some sites I found a blog where a guy said that he doesn't recommend using the GM HEI module for the fact that there are some issues on power because of the redline of the GM motors vs. the L28. Has anyone had any problems at the top of the RPM range with this mod? I"m just curious, I'm still gonna do it because its a heck of a lot cheaper and I need my car.

Alright so I got everything hooked up but no start. It's too late to look at it tonight and figure out why. I was wondering what the B spade on the Module is supposed to hook to. Everything else is self explanatory C spade is the Negative side of the coil. G is the Negative side of the distributor and W is the positive side of the distributor. The only fuzzy part is the B spade.

B is for Battery. Just run a jumper from the positive terminal of the coil. When the coil is powered, the module will be powered. Or if you're mounted by the old module, find out which wire is powered when the key is on.

There are different views on the RPM limit, some say it was actually due to the coil not the module. Others point out that 4500 rpm for a V8 is 6,000 rpm for an L6 (sparks per revolution conversion).

Good luck. Make sure that you have a good ground to the mounting hole metal. A bad ground will kill the module, otherwise it's very durable.

I"ve been wondering if I've been going about this all wrong. I dont get any voltage to my coil right now could or when it would die from being driven. Is it possible that I could have a bad ignition relay?

  zanthus said:

Thanks for the help. While searching some sites I found a blog where a guy said that he doesn't recommend using the GM HEI module for the fact that there are some issues on power because of the redline of the GM motors vs. the L28. Has anyone had any problems at the top of the RPM range with this mod? I"m just curious, I'm still gonna do it because its a heck of a lot cheaper and I need my car.

5,000 RPM * 4 cylinders = 20,000 sparks / minute

20,000 / 3 cylinders = 6,667 RPM

Not a whole lot of difference really. The GM V8's red line isn't generally limited by the ignition module. At least not in the older cars that still used the HEI module.

Hey guys thanks for all your help the car runs so at least I'm doing better than last week. Now lets just hope the module did the fix.