For a 1972 datsun 240z what have you done?

I believe this had been covered in detail over on HybridZ.

Brian.

I have most of the parts for my '72, but the car won't be close to ready, if you will replace them, you are welcome to them.

Front: Toyota vented rotors w/appropriate callipers,

Rear-ZX parts...I can drop them off to Mickey if that will help

Just finished doing the rear disc conversion on mine. Fronts were already upgraded to the Toyota 4Runner calipers.

- Aluminum caliper brackets and e-brake cable bracket from Tinmonk on eBay - $155 (Only e-brake brackets available now - send seller a message)

- 1986 Rebuilt Maxima Calipers (w/pads) from Rockauto - $50 each (closeout sale). MUST order left and right!

- Vented/Slotted 280ZX rotors from R1 Concepts on Ebay - $110

- Russell braided lines (all 4) - $90

I am into this for about $400, but it came out great and is ready to go. Just bled the system last weekend. Just need to get one more brake cable clip and adjust the e-brake.

EDIT: I also purchased a new ZX Master Cylinder and did the updrade to the bigger unit. Add another $115 for this...

Tim

Edited February 17, 201114 yr by SSuspect

Hls30 & SSuspect: sorry I posted this in the wrong forum. Are Toyota parts what most use? The pix look so sweet compared to the stock junk I have that needs rebuild. My car was scheduled to go on the dyno but the brake fluid spewed. Mickey sugested the conversion but I'm not sure what to do at this point as I need rust control 1st. Thanks.

For a 1972 datsun 240z what have you done?

I believe this had been covered in detail over on HybridZ.

Brian.

For conversion processes like this, Hybrid Z would be a good place to do research.

I can't speak from experience as we are still using rear drums.

The easiest method would be to use 280z rear disks. Use the 280z rotors and calipers and buy an adapter plate. Don't forget the master. If you still have stock 240z front brakes, this would be ideal.

If you've changed the fronts, you will need to match the rears properly to keep the bias correct. In this case an adjustable proportioning valve should be used.

Hls30 & SSuspect: sorry I posted this in the wrong forum. Are Toyota parts what most use? The pix look so sweet compared to the stock junk I have that needs rebuild.

There are a TON of articles about these swaps. The front Toyota 4Runner caliper swap is SIMPLE! The rears are a bit tougher and a lotf people think it is overkill. I was going to just rebuild my rear drums, but the cost to rebuild rear drums to "new" condition would have been nearly as much as the disc conversion!

Here is a simple one for the front Toyota swaps.

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/Calipers/toyotaCalipers.html

Here is the "overall" thread about brake swaps over on HybridZ. Covers a LOT!

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/

Another decent thread...

http://reocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/6117/zbrakeupgrade.html

Hope this helps. You can search the brake sections of the forums and find a TON of info...

IMPORTANT! If you do these swaps, you will also need to upgrade your master cylinder to a 15/16" unit from a ZX.

Tim

Thanks guys for the tips! I will check out the HybredZ site. Never heard of it untill now. I've let my Z sit for quite some time & not upgraded anything. My mechanic can & has done the drum - disc conversion but I wanted a few more ideas before I jumped. I just know the drum brakes on my RX-7 suck big-time on a road track. I've never really explored "brake fade" like I'd like to... Thanks again for the details.

For track purposes, the drums should be adequate. Two things you will need to do.

1) Get racing compound pads and shoes. The only place I found that makes our rear shoes in a racing compound is Porterfield.

2) Brake fade is caused by heat. You will need to duct cool air to the back of the front rotors to cool the rotor and caliper.

Since the topic title is "drum to disc", refer to my previous post.

For track purposes, the drums should be adequate. Two things you will need to do.

1) Get racing compound pads and shoes. The only place I found that makes our rear shoes in a racing compound is Porterfield.

2) Brake fade is caused by heat. You will need to duct cool air to the back of the front rotors to cool the rotor and caliper.

Since the topic title is "drum to disc", refer to my previous post.

Too bad my vents are cosmetic...