FYI... here's my set-up sans the emissions bits courtesy of Z Therapy.  Keeping the stock air filter box also lets you keep the carb overflow connections.  Note the boot covering the air pump connection behind the front carb - if you don't cover that opening, the carbs will be pulling completely unfiltered air and debris through it. 

Here's my bead blasted then plugged up with brass NPT plugs.  They are not the correct thread but worked fine into the soft aluminium.  Thanks for that information Mr @Bruce Palmer

McMaster Carr does carry Aluminum BSPT plugs.

On 1/20/2001 at 1:56 AM, Formica said:

I noticed the wild variations in timing based on the presence of emission controls - a 12 degree difference?!! -

Did you actually measure and see this amount of variation or are you talking about the specifications in the FSM?

Timing can swing by up to 40 degrees or more with one throttle press, on an engine with common timing controls.  The emissions controls typically just affect idle timing.  Since you don't drive at idle it won't affect performance.

Update & follow up questions:  I've removed the air pump and its connected hoses.  I retained the factory air filter/housing and have have plugged where the air pump hose connects to the air filter housing.   I also kept the hose connecting the air filter housing to the rocker cover.  The engine still runs great. So far so good.

 So, now I'd like to clean up the orphaned air pump output connections.   Questions: 1). Can I remove the Check Valve and plug the hole without affecting anything?  2) Can I remove the Anti-Backfire valve and plug the hole with out aff Ching anything?  3). The anti-back fire valve hose connects to the  balance tube via a chrome tube with a slotted end.  (It's shown in the center of the photo just under the linkage diaphragm.)  Is this slotted chrome tube threaded into the balance tube?  What's the best way to remove it?  What type of screw should I plug it with (size, length, thread type.)?   Thanks!  Jughead

On 5/9/2018 at 12:09 PM, Jughead said:

Thanks!  And thanks much for the feedback - even if it wasn’t what I expected or wanted to hear.   Here’s what started his whole this:  I cant get the original air filter off with out the front wing nut getting blocked by the inner fender.  If I can figure this out, then based on what I’m reading her I’ll stick with the original.  Thanks again!  JH

I used the 2 brown spacers (between the manifold and carburetors) from a 260 Z. They are thinner and allowed me to removed the stock air cleaner cover.

 

1 hour ago, Powderkeg said:

I used the 2 brown spacers (between the manifold and carburetors) from a 260 Z. They are thinner and allowed me to removed the stock air cleaner cover.

@jalexquijano

 

I did headers and deleted the EGR pump side of things. On my series 1 PCV and carb venting I went with the ITG filter and tapped both the valve cover with AN10 fittings and carburetor vents with regular fuel line to the back plate so they'd still flow as designed and kept the stock PCV setup which I think is a good thing. I used the MSA 50mm height velocity stacks which are fairly close to the stock air filter stack height. After the dealership drilled the big holes in my 1973 stock orange box to help with the vapor lock issue I figured this setup is very close to stock and also looks pretty darn good.