Fuel injected 240Z

[JEFF]

Well not yet - But could i put a 280 FI system on a 240 head?

I sure would like to. Anyone know of any problems doing this??

- Jeff

[sjcurtis]

Jeff you need to source a late E88 head, I mean one produced after 1980. This head will give you the acceptable 240Z head and all the relief for the injectors this head is the standard head for an L24E out of the R30 series Skyline. The engine was used in a variety of cars your Nissan dealer should be able to help. So 81-85 production E88 will do what you want.

good luck

Steve:classic:

[JEFF]

Thanks steve ! I plan on putting the 280 FI on

from the parts car i bought. I am bolting that N47

head on the 240 block ( because i already

remanufactured the 240 block ) the 240 block

is bored .030, TRW pistons & shotpeened rods.

Do you have any objection to the N47 head on

this 240 block? The car will be for street use only.

What i realy need to know is the PSI the injectors

are supposed to run at, And will the fuel pressure

regulator adjust for any fuel pump i put on -- providing

i put one on that puts out more pressure than the

injectors need to see.

[sjcurtis]

I have to be honest , I do not know anything about the N47 so I will not comment other than to say if it came off an L28 it should be good if it is open chamber, only caution might be watch your compression ratio.

Pumps and regulators, okay this is what I know any fuel injected nissan car that has an engine capacity between 2.0 L and 3.5 L can donate a pump for your project, the only caution is if it comes off a turbo car it might flow high. The standard fuel reg on the nissan manifold will regulate any of the pumps from above.

If you decide on an aftermarket pump bosch are good brand you need a pump that can operate around 35-40 psi I am not sure what flow figures but the store should be able to give you information on that for a bunch of diffrent cars and then you choose." Some of the aftermarket pumps can be very noisy".

My favorite is the standard nissan pump from the 82-83 280zx, they are super reliable "quiet" and they are at every breakers yard.

any way good luck:classic:

steve

[JEFF]

Thanks Steve !!

I'll look around and see what i can find to put

out 35 - 40 psi -

The 280Z 'owners manual' shows the locations

of alot of underhood parts. One pic. shows the

fuel pump ( near the tank ) and next to the pump

is a thing they call a "fuel damper" --- Do you know

what that is for?? And do i need one?

- Jeff

[sjcurtis]

Jeff, If you go after the fuel pump and the damper and attachment hardware on an existing vehicle Z/ZX get the whole mounting plate and flex hoses damper - everything you think is related. then you can mount it all up fwd of the fuel tank of your Z. My zx fuel pump is mounted on the OEM suspension plate with the damper and pre fillter right up next to the spare wheel tub under the floor mounted to the rear parcel shelf floor by three bolts just behind the rear right strut. themore bits you have when you start the better and quicker the right result, you can always shelve the excess parts. If you dont grad everything when it is there in front of you it could take a while to get the job done.

for pump wiring use the existing rear harness connections located with the fuel quantity loom to the tank.

at the front of the car where these two wires come up to the main ignition loom you will need to in stall relays which are controlled bi the fuel management computer. you will also have to run a relay for the efi computer as well as a start lead in. Well we can talk more about electrics later.

good luck Steve

:classic:

[2ManyZs]

FWIW, the fuel damper is there to even out the pulses of fuel coming from the pump so as to supply a nice even fuel flow. Some pumps have a fuel flow that comes out in "squirts" instead of a nice even flow. You would have instances of pressure spikes without it. Hope you can understand that, not sure if that adequately explains it or not...:cross-eye

[JEFF]

2ManyZs -- Perfect explaination - I sorta thought

it worked that way - I understand about the fuel

'pulse' from the pump,even though it is a DC motor.

If I can find a fuel pump that does not produce a

pulse do i need the damper? Or is'nt there such

a pump. Thanks for your input!

- Jeff

[2ManyZs]

If you can find a constant flow pump, if there is such a thing, you shouldn't need the damper.

If I'm thinking correctly though, most if not all Fuel Injected cars now use some type of damper in the fuel rail. It would seem to me that if you put a pressure regulator as close to the fuel rail as possible, the pump would pressurize the line from the tank to the regulator and the regulator could provide nearly the same function. Since it would only allow only a certain amount of fuel to enter the fuel rail and then to the injectors, it would cause a restriction in the line from the pump that would then stabilize the fuel pressure and volume in the line aft of the regulator.

Might want another opinion, sometimes my "common sense" approach doesn't always pan out.....:cross-eye

[sjcurtis]

To go in a little deeper now that we have established that a fuel pulse exists in the fuel rail, lets look at the possibilities for that pulse if we have the regulater operating correctly the flow will be good and pressure should be 38psi +1 or -1 psi at when engine is running with the optimum fuel plume coming from the injector into the cylinder. If you now rev the engine the vacum will drop increasing flow to the injectors still at 38psi still pulsing now that pulse at high rpm and high flow is still at optimum plume because the excess is absorbed by the damper. when you come off full power that next two seconds is critical when the damper has to be fully efficient and earn its place in the system, because any excess flow to the injectors when vacum is restored and the regulator closes down the flow, will destroy the optimum fuel plume and the atomization of the fuel in to the engine causing in worst case piston wash. and the bottom line is all the hard work you just put in showing that honda your tail lights will disappear in a coughing splutering mess after you change gear.

I hope I have put this across in a way that does not affend but that is how I understand the relationship between the pump the regulator and the value of the damper (critical part) in the system

Good luck

Steve:classic: