Advice on painting a 240?

[mperdue]

I haven't had a car repainted before, so I've also got a question or two.

I have all of my body panels removed at this point. My plan is to rust-proof the interior, rebuild the suspension and weld up any rust holes in the engine bay and other places. I may also do some preliminary work on the body panels such as straightening dents and applying primer.

What I'm wondering is do the body shop require that the parts be on the car when you take the car in for a paint job? Do they remove all of the panels and paint them individually? I don't really want to have to reassemble the car before painting, so I'd like to take in the rolling chassis with the fenders, hood, doors and other parts detached so that they'll get full coverage. I'm just not sure how this works. Thanks!

MIchael

[EScanlon]

Mike:

One of the biggest considerations in painting a car in pieces or as a unit will be the type of paint you paint with.

Metallic paints are notorious for having a different "look" when painted separately and then assembled. Same with Pearls and other paints with additives in the paint.

Generally, you would do the interior and underside of the pieces (doors, fenders, hatch and jambs) first, then have the whole unit at least put together, although not bolted, and then paint the exterior as one unit.

Then again, it's also up to the painter and the booth he has to work with.

2¢

[metalmate]

Ditto to that last reply on painting the car part by part. If you are painting with metallic or pearl basecoat the car really should be together. There are too many variables that will affect how the metallic paint job will look from the face [straight on] and from an angle [sidetone.] Temperature, humidity. spray pressure, spray technique, and a $^!# pot load of other variables make painting your car in pieces kind of a crap shoot unless the painter is really good which, puts us right back to, "ya get what ya pay for."

[mperdue]

Thank guys. I do plan on spending big bucks on the paint job - but I'm hoping having everything disassembled will save me a lot. I've already got some body work that needs to be done on the rear end so it could get costly. It's not too much but not perfect panels either.

Oh and right now I'm thinking of going with the 113 Green Metallic, so I will put the panels on just to be safe. I may change my mind by then but I'm been leaning this way for a while now. Thanks again!!

Michael

[inline4]

I know that once a car has rust its a problem

I picked up a datsun 510 and I wanted to eventually drop a ca18det or sr20det into it.

the problem is rust. the car's exterior has some surface rust around the panels... that probably isnt too big a concern.

but... there's a big rot hole in the rear passenger floorpan and a small hole in the drivers side.

I'm goign to have the floors replaced (either by myself or paid) when i learn how to weld.

should this be a big discouraging factor on how much money I'm going to put in the car?

[EScanlon]

2¢

Have the undercarriage checked out by a body shop (since you don't have prior welding experience), and have them give you an estimate on repairing those rust holes. While you're at it have them check the outside to ensure that you're not looking at something more major than just surface rust.

Whether or not it disuades you from continuing with the project will be up to you, i.e. how much money to work with it.

Rust can be a killer, I've seen vehicles with otherwise good running gear (engine, tranny, rear end) with bodies that simply do not have what it takes to be considered for restoration. (i.e. it would be easier to replace the body, or transplant the running gear into a good body with bad gear)

If you address the rust early enough it can be managed, if you wait, it might kill the car out from your engine overhaul etc.

Just my 2¢