gas tank cleaning (not from z)

[1973240]

this is kinda the wrong forum but ive found you guys to be much more responsive and nicer to talk to then the mopar guys on the challenger forum so ill ask you guys in stead.

i pulled the sending unit out of the tank in my challenger to dump the red varnishy gas out and i found a nice little suprise! the gas has crystalized or something. it looks like rust but i scraped where i could reach with a screw driver and it looks like clean metal under the crystaly stuff so i think its just the gas doing something weird... anyone have any suggestions on a way to clean the tank out? i was thinking i could maybe stick a pressure washer in there or something but im not really sure... any help would be greatly appreciated!! thanks!

i threw in a picture of the challenger too just for fun

[Arne]

Thread moved from S30 topics to Open General discussions.

[pjoe]

i put a couple feet of chain in my tank along with some kerosene and shook the hell out of it. then repeat repeat repeat. in the end i poured the kerosene out over a piece of porch screen until nothing came out but kerosene. hope this helps. keep one end of chain out so you dont lose it all.

[Mike B]

That tank has a lot of crud in it, so I would take it to a radiator repair shop and have it boiled out.

-Mike

[venus]

Eeeew! I need to clean my Z's tank. There must be some solvent that will dissolve petroleum products but doesn’t eat the metal. Will be discussing w/ my mechanic (Carter Racing) & will relay any pearls. Love to hear all ideas that don’t cost a fortune.

The Challenger rocks! Show me more photos...

Edited February 20, 2011 by venus

[Walter Moore]

That tank has a lot of crud in it, so I would take it to a radiator repair shop and have it boiled out.

-Mike

What he said... I second that motion.

And now that you have piqued our interest, a link to your Challenger build pictures would be nice.

[Darrel]

You can use a pressure washer, try to clean it out as best you can at home, then take it to the car wash. You might not have baffles like the 240, so you should be able to clean it.

If it's still bad after you clean it, then take it to the rad shop.

I took mine to a car wash and was able to flush all the varnish out. There might still be a little bit behind the baffle on my 240, but not enough that clogs the filter every year.

[1973240]

glad you guys are showing interest! i havent gotten any emails saying i got repies so i got worried but its probably cause i posted it in an s30 discussion and it got moved didnt even think of putting it in a different section hahaha

ok so here we go,

first, id like to point out that im 18 and got the challenger when i was 14 so when you see pics you might wanna barf at some of the bodywork just keep in mind ive spent maybe 500 doing all the bodywork so far and 300 as a repro drivers floor haha anyways heres a link to the progress... http://www.forebodiesonly.com/forum/album.php?albumid=75 not sure if you have to be a forum member to view though so let me know how that goes

second, a friend of mine suggested drain-o and i had thought of it too and although i think it would probably work well, what do i do with the drain-o when im done?

third, the tanks super simple and has no baffles or anything just lots of crusty varnish stuff haha

taking it to a car wash is a good idea too! i might try that if i dont do drain-o or something similar first

and arne, thanks for moving it for me i didnt even think to do so and wouldnt know how if i wouldve thought of it after i posted it

and i threw in some pics of my greatest achievement in automobile anything haha with the help and masterminding of my friends dad of course

[1973240]

if anyones following this still, i finally yanked the 383 out of my daily driver coronet for the challenger.. wont be long now!!!! oh and it was snowing most of the time haha have to love washington timing :stupid:

[1973240]

[240260280z]

Looks like a nice project.

For gas tank cleaning, I found acetone to work best when swishing.

If you have rust and want it removed, follow up the acetone with a swish of muriatic acid then rinse, dry and coat with por15 gast tank sealer.

You can also do the acetone then follow with phosphoric acid to neutralize the rust.

Muriatic (Hydrochloric) acid will eat into the metal, phosphoric acid will not eat into it very much.

[240260280z]

Did this a while ago:

1. Start early in AM on a Sunny Saturday morning

2. Plug all holes (thick saran wrap, or balloon with elastic wrapped over it) I used tape but elastic band and balloons from a dollar store would be better.

3. Prepare a flap that will plug gas sender hole using the backing ring, 2 vinyl discs cut from kitchen place mats or a yogurt/icecream container lid should do fine

4. Buy marbles, muriatic acid, "must for rust" or phosphoric acid or "Osphor" and rubber gloves.

5. Drop marbles in and move take around to break up some rust for ~ 5min

6. Put on safety goggles, slowly pore in 1 gal of muriatic and seal and swish for 5 min (have spray garden hose on and ready in case it leaks on you.

7. Fill tank to brim with water and let stand for 1 hour

8. Drain and rinse with water a couple of times quickly, use spray hose to get sediment out (a high pressure washer would be super for this part). (Use baking powder to neutalize the acid water).

9. Blow out quickly with air hose to dry (do it quickly as metal will flash rust) does not have to be bone dry.

10. Pour in "must for rust" or "Ospho" or phosphoric acid and swish for 5 min have a break and repeat a quick swish every 10 min for an hour.

11. Drain then flush with water a few times.

12. Dry with air hose and hot sun (bone dry).

13. Check for water in tank, if bone dry, stick a cheap dollar store funnel on sender opening and pour in POR 15 liner and swish for 15min (slowly rotate the tank as the stuff moves like molasses so give it time) Repeat a few more times in the hour then open drain plug and position tank so that excess POR-15 drains.

14. Let set for 2 days.

Here is another:

Seal all holes with thick plastic bag material then wrap tightly with tape.

Cut circular pieces from butter containers and stack on the Oring for the fuel sender to seal

Swish and Soak with acetone or lacquer thinner 1 Gallon to get the old gas varnish/goo out first

Swish with Muriatic acid full strength 1 Gallon for ~ 1hr (swish every 10min).

Drain and collect acid then have a peek inside to ensure rust is gone. If not pour acid back in and fill tank to top with water then soak over night.

Drain acid and pour in water with backing soda and swick for 15 min

Power wash and rinse with water

drain water then stick a clean rag 1/2 in to sop up the water drops that won't come out

Dry with hot air gun or hair dryer for 1hr.

Make sure it is bone dry.

Shake and stir a 1 pint can of POR 15 fuel tank sealer then pour in via a cheap plastic funnel

Rotate tank to spread the por 15 everywhere for 30min then suspend tank horizontal with drin plug out and a catch can under the drain hole

Let sit for 3 days in warm locating ~ 70F (Do not blow hot air in the tank)