I thank you guys for your support.

Quick update. When I made last post it came to me that I had not checked points gap.

Went out there about 20 min after making post and did just that. She fired right up again. This time no choke was needed and she had a choppy idle at around 2000 rpm. Couple of mini-backfires.

But I didn't have to fight to keep her alive. So real progress. Yay...

Next step is setting timing properly now that she is at timed at tdc properly. Trouble is my timing lights don't seem to work. Must be doing something wrong. Inductive type timing light. Two clamps for power (I put them on battery) and a clamp for spark plug wire ( I put that on number 1 wire). Am I doing something wrong. Should be better than this but its been years since I had to set timing.

Oh I wanted to mention. While it was idling I check guages. Tach seems fine. Amp meter jumps around. Fuel guages not working. The one that scared me was the oil guages. Was low then I saw it build up. Then it started dropping back down to near zero. So I shut it down. The oil but did look gummy and old when I had it off before. Wouldn't surprise me if it failed. So I ordered a new one. I expect to change oil a couple of times over next week. The engine has alot of sludge. May go with some thin viscosity high detergent stuff for next change. What would y'all recommend as good oil for an old stock motor to run normally after she on the road?

Btw using my phone for some of these posts. Sometimes the auto correct uses some strange words to correct my spelling. Try to read in context :-) '

Edited March 14, 201114 yr by EverRude

There is an excellent picture of a carb arrangement on the thread about idle speed picking up when the choke is pulled on. Shows the fuel rail I mentioned. Might want to capture that image for future reference.

Is the internet cool or what?

Very cool. Between this forum and the vintage mustang forum I am set learning from others successes and mistakes.

Quick update. Waiting for new oil pump before I run her anymore. So this afternoon I used my power washer to hit the chassis and knock some of the caked on old dirt and grease all over everything. Looks better but more importantly in the future it wont fall in my eyes and mouth Not too mention there were way too many spider webs for comfort. Hate those things and we got some nasty ones here in the south.

Could have been the oil sending unit - these are prone to go out do to age - did you check the connection for the sender?

Nope. And I wouldnt doubt it. But to be quite honest I really just wanted to replace the pump. If the pressure still seems wonky I'll do the sender. If that doesn't do it I will need to pull pan and clean pickup.

Thinking about putting in some engine flush treatment once I have pressure. What do you think of this type product?

New oil pump installed (primed before install). Pressure now sits around 1/3 of guage. Is this normal? Idling high right now at around 1500 to 2000 and engine temp in sitting right in middle. What should my pressure be?

'

Was going to do a quick test drive but brake pedal dropped near to floor and light came on. Checked fluid level and rear master reservoir was nearly empty. So no test drive and now I need a new master. Thinking about doing whole brake system. As for brake parts Centric brakes seems to make a good product at reasonable price. They have some $25 rotors but don't list 240 as compatible. Shows 260 and 280. Wont fit?

She runs fairly well. No smoke or noises. Just high rpm. And a slight stumble. Did the raise the carb cylinder test too disable carb while idling. Raising rear carb kills the engine. Doing front carb barely affects the engine. I assume I am only running on 3 cylinders?

Thanks

Ray

Edited March 16, 201114 yr by EverRude

Nevermind about brake rotor question figured it out. Unless my hubs were changed to later hubs they wont fit. Which is something I need to check before I buy anything.

I highly recomend the entire brake renew. Any piece left unchanged can leave you in deep doodoo when you need it the least.

Before you install any hydraulic components, open the cylinders up and wash out any grit & filings left over from the machining process.

I gotta do just the master cylinder to start. I need to test drive this darn thing before I spend any more cash. I really need to start planning ahead though as well. Needing things today but having to have everything shipped isn't capatible and very frustrating. But it's not like I am lacking things to do.

Let's see... troubleshoot fuel guage, repair rust, figure out why blinkers don't work, clean, clean, clean.... and most of this stuff doesn't cost any money. Yet....