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Mystery vacuum hose and harness wire


kjphilippona

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Every now and then someone will strip off all their EGR equipment. Maybe you could buy it off of someone. I know that the EGR makes a huge difference in the running of some engines. I don't know whether this is true of the Z's L28.

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mayitin, Mobile is a little far for me to drive. it is on the other side of Alabama from dothan. I us to drive it every weekend for 4 months, 5 years ago when the company i worked for closed the plant i worked at and moved all operations to its mother plant in Mobile. Boy did i have fun, I10 was like the Autobahn. FastWoman that would be great if i could get good used functioning parts to replace my decrepit ones. i did some research and MSA has some of the valves, but they are not cheep.

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I rewired a new plug onto the wire harness and attached it to the Thermo Time switch, the car started ok but when after warmed up to operating temp you rev up the engine you could see smoke coming out of the exhaust and it smelled like gas. The tail pipe sooted up very quick. From reading the Fuel Injection manual i take it that my Thermo Time switch is not working properly ? Living here in the south where it rarely gets very cold, is it necessary to replace this switch or just unplug it like my Dad did ? Also i looked into replacing the Thermal Vacuum Valve, EGR Control Valve and BPT Valve. MSA has all of them, the BPT Valve they sell is listed for a 1978, my 280Z is a 1977, does anyone know if it will work ?

Edited by kjphilippona
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Hey Guys! First I wanna say thanks to the forum mods for posting a lot of information on here for us new Z owners. I consider myself a car fan, i am not the most knowledgeable guy when it comes to all this but i am learning, I am a Service Advisor for a Toyota Dealership In Ardmore, Oklahoma. I Bought a 1978 Datsun 280Z 2+2 In Really good conditon on 3/21/2011. It was traded in on a new car and got a heck of a deal on it from my General Sales Manager. With That said please know i will be on here pouring over a lot of the posts on here and lookign at links that have been posted. I will eventually have questions and i love doing my own work so i will need help. LOL. I want to thank you guys in advance for any help you already have unknowingly given to me and also for future help i may receive. I have three other vehicles so this is my pet project. I own a 1999 Toyota Tacoma V6 Pre-Runner, 2009 Toyota Tundra 5.7L V8 4x4, and a 2009 Honda CBR-R600. So let the good times roll! I am trying to figure out how to post pictures so bear with me guys! Again thanks Guys!

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I really can't figure this car out, after replacing the coolant temp sensor with one from MSA, i hope it is the correct one, adjusted the idle to 900 rpm, cleaned and reinstalled the dash pot, checked and replaced all vacuum lines. The weather has been great and i have been driving the car to work and it has not stalled and idles smoother than eclipse. yesterday i took it to work and down to my mother and it stalled again and took two times to get it started and it ran rough as usual. What the heck is going on with this thing ? :disappoin

Edited by kjphilippona
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Do you have a good, solid, clean connection at the temperature sensor? The only time I ever experiecned stalling like that was on my 810 and it turned out to be a bad connector.

Edited by sblake01
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^^^ Yeah, most likely a dirty connector -- temp sensor, maybe AFM. If I were you, I'd replace all the 2-conductor Bosch-type fuel injection system connectors with new, and clean up the throttle position sensor connector, AFM connector, and ECU connector. You can get the connectors cheap on Ebay. This guy is honest and puts together a nice kit:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/injector-connector-kit-6pc-datsun-280z-280zx-300zx-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem43a04f8954QQitemZ290452375892QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The connectors are a bit flimsy, but at least they're fresh, and they work fine. If you ask the guy, he can put together a kit for you with the number of connectors you need.

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Oh wow... Well, sometimes the ECU goes bad, sometimes from a cold solder joint. I know it's a PITA, but maybe you could open up the ECU and reflow (re-melt) all of the solder joints with a 30 or 40W soldering iron. Sometimes they go cold with vibrations and repeated thermal cycling.

Maybe it's a stuck (open) cold start injector.

Beyond that, you could check resistances at the ECU connector. For instance the coolant temp sensor might be suspect.

Edited by FastWoman
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If you have a new sensor, it's probably good. MSA is fine. Just do a resistance check on it (at the ECU connector) to make CERTAIN it's good and has good connectivity. (Note: There may be some connections inside your wiring harness that are corroded.)

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