fuel pump check valve

[jazfe]

My 77 280 starts fine after the first start of the day so I'm sure I need a new check valve to keep the fuel pressure in the system over night. Would anyone know where a fella could purchase such an item without buying the whole fuel pump?

[FastWoman]

The OEM check valve is no longer available. Even the Volvo equivalent is no longer available. I had sourced that out and posted about it to this list, and SOMEBODY gobbled up an otherwise abundant supply of the things. I was lucky to buy even ONE of the things before the other anonymous, greedy @$#%ing SOB exploited all my hard work sourcing the part for others on this list. :pirate:

So it's my hope that my fellow Z enthusiasts will try out this little generic, inline check valve, available on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-16-Check-Valve-Diesel-Gas-8mm-One-Way-Fuel-Flow-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb5ed1823QQitemZ260750252067QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

(Search Ebay for a 5/16" fuel check valve, carried by sam_the_diesel_man. I understand from him that this check valve is suitable for fuel injection pressures (and the Bosch L-Jetronic system isn't very high pressure anyway).

You would insert this check valve inline between your fuel filter and your fuel rail. Optionally, you could also gut the check valve on your fuel pump and reinstall.

If you do this, please report back as to how well it works.

And I HOPE the bat rastard who cornered the market on the Volvo check valves for somewhere between $20 and $45 each can't sell them for more than the $16.50 (shipped) that these generic valves are available for on Ebay.

[jazfe]

FastWoman you are just a wealth of information. Thank you. I will order one of "sam_the_diesel_man"s check valves and report back.

[jkeese01]

FastWoman you are just a wealth of information. Thank you. I will order one of "sam_the_diesel_man"s check valves and report back.

I need to install a check valve on my '77 280z. How is the one from "sam the diesel man" working out?

Thanks.

[ZCurves]

Damn Sarah! You're scaring me! -I mean you said '@$#%ing'. Godzilla almost dropped his maracas!!

-Seriously, do you have the old part #'s. I have found that a lot of fuel system parts also have a Mercedes (Bosch) match.

[FastWoman]

Well, it's difficult to actually SAY "@#$%ing." The pronunciation is quite difficult. Anyway, sorry to have scared you and Godzilla. :classic:

From my notes: "The Bosch/Nissan part (17014-N4225) is NLA. The functional equivalent is the Bosch/Volvo part (1 583 386 011) for the 1976 - 1981 Volvo 240."

Good luck, and let me know what you find.

Jazfe, how did the generic check valve work? Inquiring minds!

Edited September 28, 2011 by FastWoman

[jkeese01]

Bought one of the "5/16" Check Valve Diesel or Gas 8mm One Way Fuel Flow" from sam_the_diesel_man on ebay.com. Installed the check valve between the fuel filter and the fuel rail.

So far the fuel pressure is holding and the car cranks right up.

The air in the fuel line between the check valve and the fuel pump seems to have no effect after the engine is cranked.

Thanks.

[hr369]

replaced mine with the volvo and my fuel pressure still went south. turned out to be a leaking injector

[jkeese01]

replaced mine with the volvo and my fuel pressure still went south. turned out to be a leaking injector

If it was my injectors, next step was to buy the FUEL INJECTOR INJECTION CLEANER CLEANING KIT or something similar I found on ebay. Saw one somewhere that was around $100. The one I see tonight there is $209.99.

How did you connect the volvo one?

The sam_the_diesel_man on ebay.com one looked easier to connect, just cut the gas line and push both tapered ends onto the fuel hose.

[hr369]

the check valve just screws into the side of the fuel pump. its

the brass colored inlet fitting down on the lower right hand

side of the pump

[jkeese01]

Very nice!

Great to hear the threading on the Volvo check valve matches the threading on the Datsun fuel pump.

[siteunseen]

FastWoman could I use the check valve off ebay on my return line from my adjustable FPR that won't hold pressure in the fuel rail for the injectors? That's a problem I have and you suggested a primer switch remedy earlier but could this be another route?