It seems i need to change my head gasket, i removed the oilpan and there was some white substance with oil..

I've never changed head gasket, so all the hints are valuable to me. I really hate the idea that i need to dismantle half motor but guess i have to.

I have the most valuable hint you'll ever hear:

If the idea of changing a head gasket is too much pain (for you), pay someone else to do it!

Bump. Now i've located a coolant (?) leak in the 6th cylinder. Also the gasket is a bit swollen from the rear. That explains why i have to top up the radiator quite often. All hints are more than welcome to ease this task. I need to have this car running in 2 weeks so..

edit. i have no oil on the water and no goo on the oil.

Edited May 24, 201113 yr by Reverend

Pics of the wet area

Pull plugs and show us a photo of them.

Tips for removing head:

Secure timing chain tensioner

Put motor at "top dead centre"

Remove 2 small bolts at front of head underneath first

Use block of wood and hammer blows if head is stuck

Clean all headbolt holes

Buy headgasket that matches block

If you have an oil bar, remove and flush it out by spraying carb cleaner through holes

When reseating head, make sure cam is at tdc

Check head for cracks http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/head/crackedhead/index.htm

Check head for flatness

spray foam (shaving cream or similar) in cylinders when cleaning block surface then vacuum it out with the trapped debris

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2969745/1977-datsun-280z/page-3

http://dirtys30.blogspot.com/2010/11/l28-teardown-complete.html

Plugs looked brown reddish. There was some oil or something black on the 3rd and 4rd plug, i removed the substance and put the plugs back. Drove about 200 miles after that and plugs are clean. Sheehs, i better found out some who has done this before to help me.. Too many variables to remember.

R&R-ing the head is not a big deal, but you will need a few tools. I'm guessing you have the stock carbs and exhaust manifold which will keep it straight forward. The biggest worry getting the exhaust downpipe-to-manifold nuts off without breaking a stud. Soak the nuts and studs for several days in a good penetrating oil before removing them. Otherwise it really isn't hard.

Cut a piece of wood to match the timing chain wedge tool shown in the FSM (download from http://xenons30.com). Drill a hole through the top of the wood block and tie a string to it for easy extraction. You will also need a 1/2" drive torque wrench that goes to 150 newton-meters and a 1/2" drive 10mm allen socket. Otherwise, you will need standard hand tools including a 1/2" drive socket set up to 19mm with extensions and a universal joint for the exhaust connection.

With the right tools and some good luck with the exhaust, a novice can do the job in a weekend not counting a trip to an automotive machine shop to measure the head. A skilled Z mechanic can do a head gasket swap on a '72 240Z in 3-4 hours.

If you choose to do it yourself, I will be more than happy to do a complete write-up for you.

I'd be very happy for your help Jeff! Newbies like me have to learn it someday. I wonder what else i can/have to do while head is off..?

I just cleaned up photos giving step by step removal of 77 280z. I will post tomorrow...1am here now.

Here is a guide to removing EFI head: 280z head removal guide

It should help.

That's awesome (as usual) Blue. Koalia, yours will be similar, but slightly different with carbs rather than FI like Blue's Z. The intake and exhaust don't have to come off to pull the head. If you are JUST doing the gasket and do not plan to have a machine shop measure the head, then you can leave the carbs and exhaust on the head as it saves a lot of time. If you know you are going to take it to a shop, go ahead and pull everything as Blue described.